Difference between revisions of "AY Honors/Small Mammal Pets/Answer Key"

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A black and white Dutch rabbit

The Dutch rabbit, easily identifiable by its characteristic colour pattern, was once the most popular of all rabbit breeds. However, after dwarf rabbits were developed, the popularity of the small rabbit dwindled. Nevertheless, the Dutch rabbit remains one of the top ten most popular breeds worldwide.

It is thought that the Dutch rabbit was first developed in the lowlands of the United Kingdom with ancestors from the Netherlands and Belgium. In the beginning of the 19th century, the Dutch rabbit was imported into England where it continued to thrive as a meat breed.

Appearance

Haily Jo Barnaby is a nasty ho. she is preganat and is trying to kill it. she will sleep with anyone and has a few STDs. her cell number is 574-305-0535 The Dutch rabbit is a fairly small breed, weighing between 3 1/2 and 5 1/2 pounds. Despite its popularity, the Dutch rabbit has not changed much over the years. The most striking aspect of the breed is the marking pattern, and it is available in eight different colours and a few unique multi-coloured versions.

The front of the face, front part of the body, and one third of the of the rear paws are white. The cheeks, ears and belly are coloured. The saddle line to the tail and down the back legs are also coloured. This pattern of white and coloured fur is very important and must be maintained in order for the rabbit to be considered a true Dutch.

The fur of this breed is dense, short and lustrous. The ears are erect and well-furred. The coloured fur of this rabbit can be black, blue, chocolate, tortoiseshell, grey, steel grey. Of these choices, the black/white and blue/white are the most popular.

In the 1960s a tricolour Dutch rabbit was developed and thought by some to be a cross between the Harlequin rabbit breed and the Dutch rabbit. Later, a harlequin colour version of the Dutch rabbit was developed, thought to be produced from the tortoiseshell Dutch.

Housing and Care

Due to the size of the Dutch, it requires less space than most rabbits and is a favourite among rabbit owners.

Feeding

As with any rabbit, hay or grass should make up around 80% of the Dutch's daily intake. Unlimited hay should be available at all times. Pellets should be offered as a supplement only. Exclusively feeding a rabbit pellets can lead to life-threatening dental disease - only by chewing hay or grass can a rabbit wear down their back teeth sufficiently (their teeth grow constantly, as with rodents).

Meadow hay or Timothy hay is ideal - but Alfalfa hay should be avoided, as it is too rich in calcium for a rabbit's digestive system.

Supplement with a small cup of greens or other vegetables each day - rabbits can eat a wide variety, including flowers and herbs. Fruit can also be given as a treat, but no more than 2 teaspoonfuls a day.

Although rabbits graze throughout the day, they take most of their food at dawn and dusk, so it's best to provide 2 regular meals - one in the morning and one in the early evening.

Housing

Many rabbits do very well in the home. They can be litter box-trained and are quite fastidious groomers. Be aware that rabbits love to chew, so make sure all wires are safely hidden or in protective plastic covers and understand that some of your furniture may be nibbled. If the Rabbit nips or bites you it is probably only out of curiosity. If you choose to cage your rabbit, make sure the cage is at least 2 feet by 2 feet by 4 feet. If the cage has a wire bottom, make certain you give the rabbit a plank or sea grass mats to stand on so his feet won’t get damaged from being on the wire all the time. Provide a hide box or shelter and plenty of straw for bedding.

Common Diseases and Disorders

As with other rabbits, Dutch rabbits do not do well in high or low temperatures. They are prone to hairball obstructions and matted coats if not cared for properly. Rabbits need daily grooming to remove loose hair. Other health concerns include earmites, Pasteurella, respiratory disease, dental problems, urinary bladder stones and fractured backs. Be quick to notice any changes in diet or litter box habits and contact a rabbit veterinarian immediately.

The average life span of a breeding Dutch rabbit is 5 to 6 years. By spaying or neutering early in life, you can increase their life expectancy to around 10 years.

External links

American Rabbit Breeder's Association

de: Holländerkaninchen

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-[[Image:54986main_mouse_med.jpg|thumb|270px|right|White fancy mouse]]
+[[Image:Random 006.jpg|thumb|250px|A black and white Dutch rabbit]]
-'''Fancy mice''' ("fancy", in this context, means "hobby") are domesticated versions of the common or house mouse (''[[Mus musculus]]'').
+The '''Dutch rabbit''', easily identifiable by its characteristic colour pattern, was once the most popular of all [[rabbit]] breeds. However, after [[dwarf rabbits]] were developed, the popularity of the small rabbit dwindled. Nevertheless, the Dutch rabbit remains one of the top ten most popular breeds worldwide.
-==Physical description==
+It is thought that the Dutch rabbit was first developed in the lowlands of the [[United Kingdom]] with ancestors from the [[Netherlands]] and [[Belgium]]. In the beginning of the 19th century, the Dutch rabbit was imported into England where it continued to thrive as a [[meat]] breed.
-Fancy mice is a term to describe mice that have been selectively bred for pet or for show. They can vary greatly in size, from small pet mice that are approximately 16-18 cm (6 inches or so) long from nose to the tip of the tail, to show mice that measure 30cm (12 inches) nose to tail. Pet mice weigh about 25-40 g but large show mice can weigh up to 100g. As fancy mice have a different process of [[natural selection]] than their wild cousins, they come in a variety of colours and patterns. These include black, chocolate, blue, white, cream, lilac, red, fawn, champagne, cinnamon, golden agouti, silver agouti, silver and dove. Female mice are called does and males are called bucks. If well cared for, a mouse lives for around 2 years on average, with some reaching 3 years old.
-==Mice as pets==
+== Appearance ==
-[[Image:Fancy Mouse.jpg|thumb|left|A tame black fancy mouse]]
+Haily Jo Barnaby is a nasty ho. she is preganat and is trying to kill it. she will sleep with anyone and has a few STDs. her cell number  is 574-305-0535
-Mice are kept as pets in many countries for a number of reasons. Fancy mice are small, inexpensive, relatively clean, and generally have a good [[temperament]]. Female mice are popular with many owners since they tend to cohabitate with other mice better than males. Additionally, the urine of female fancy mice does not contain as strong of an odor as that of the male mice. Bucks can fight with each other, unless they are introduced at a very young age, and they produce urine with a strong, musky smell. Some people, however, prefer the personality and curiosity of male mice. It is a good idea to keep fancy mice in groups of at least two if possible, as mice are sociable animals. However, if a buck and a doe of breeding age are put in the same cage they will produce a new litter every three weeks until separated.
+The Dutch rabbit is a fairly small breed, weighing between 3 1/2 and 5 1/2 pounds. Despite its popularity, the Dutch rabbit has not changed much over the years. The most striking aspect of the breed is the marking pattern, and it is available in eight different colours and a few unique multi-coloured versions.
-==Caging==
+The front of the face, front part of the body, and one third of the of the rear paws are white. The cheeks, ears and belly are coloured. The saddle line to the tail and down the back legs are also coloured. This pattern of white and coloured fur is very important and must be maintained in order for the rabbit to be considered a true Dutch.
-Mice should be kept in well-ventilated areas. Fish tanks or cages with bars and plastic flooring make good housing. Give attention that the distance between the bars is under 9mm. It is a problem for young mice to force themselves through a cage with wider bars, and it's dangerous when they get stuck there.
-The best products for in-cage bedding are aspen wood shavings or a commercial paper-based material. Despite popular belief, mice can be given newspaper for nesting, as the ink is soy based and nontoxic. They should not be given [[cedar|cedar shavings]], as the oils in the wood are unhealthy. Small hide-aways and toys (such as a [[cardboard]] tube) are good to have in the cage. Commercial toys are also available.
+The fur of this breed is dense, short and lustrous. The ears are erect and well-furred. The coloured fur of this rabbit can be black, blue, chocolate, tortoiseshell, grey, steel grey. Of these choices, the black/white and blue/white are the most popular.
-[[Cat]] owners must also take special precautions to ensure that the mouse's housing is secure, as even the friendliest of domestic cats have been known to torment, kill and eat fancy mice if given the chance.
+In the 1960s a tricolour Dutch rabbit was developed and thought by some to be a cross between the Harlequin rabbit breed and the Dutch rabbit. Later, a harlequin colour version of the Dutch rabbit was developed, thought to be produced from the tortoiseshell Dutch.
-==Feeding==
+==Housing and Care==
-Food for fancy mice is relatively inexpensive. [[Veterinarian]]s generally recommend a product called [[lab block]], a scientifically-formulated blend originally designed for mice in laboratories. Dry [[dog food]] is another good option when lab block is unavailable, as it offers balanced nutrition for a mouse and helps keep their teeth conditioned. Special mouse food found in pet stores also makes a good diet. In order to keep variety in their diets, mice can also eat oats, oily seeds, clean [[egg shell]], breakfast cereal, and [[stale bread]]. Fruit and vegetables can be offered occasionally. They should also have clean water at all times and some sort of chewing wood in order to keep their teeth from growing too long. Wood found outdoors may not be safe, but many products are available from pet stores to satisfy the chewing instinct.
-==Breeding mice==
+Due to the size of the Dutch, it requires less space than most rabbits and is a favourite among rabbit owners.
-It is important to consider [[breeding]] carefully and thoughtfully due to the rapid reproduction rate of mice. Adequate housing for the young should be available.
-Female mice should not be bred before 12 weeks or after 8 months; doing so can be very dangerous, and some mice can die while giving birth. Bucks and does should be housed in separate enclosures until breeding is desired, at which point they can be placed together. The doe should be placed in the buck's enclosure, otherwise the doe will fight with the buck to defend her territory. Does come into [[estrus|heat]] around every five days, so the pair can be kept together for up to ten days.
+====Feeding====
-[[Image:Mice 24 Nov 2004.jpg|thumb|Baby Mice.]]
-A pregnant mouse will grow very round near the time of birth. The [[gestation]] period is approximately 18 to 21 days. Typical [[litter (animal)|litter]] size is 4 to 12 young, though it can be less or more. It is best to remove the buck otherwise he will mate with the female as soon as the first litter is born, putting a huge strain on the mother, the unborn litter, and the new babies.
+As with any rabbit, hay or grass should make up around 80% of the Dutch's daily intake. Unlimited hay should be available at all times. Pellets should be offered as a supplement only. Exclusively feeding a rabbit pellets can lead to life-threatening dental disease - only by chewing hay or grass can a rabbit wear down their back teeth sufficiently (their teeth grow constantly, as with rodents).
-Baby mice, also called [[pup]]s, are born [[Blindness|blind]], naked, and [[deaf]]. Their eyes are closed and their ears are stuck to the sides of their heads. After giving birth the mother should be left alone for a while, otherwise she might panic and eat the pups. She might also eat any [[dead]] or sickly offspring.
+Meadow hay or Timothy hay is ideal - but Alfalfa hay should be avoided, as it is too rich in calcium for a rabbit's digestive system.
-Pups begin to grow hair at two to four days. Ears open at three to five days, and the pups will start [[vocalization|vocalizing]]. Eyes open at 14 days, and the babies will start exploring the world around them. At three weeks old they look like miniature versions of adult mice. At four to five weeks the pups should be separated from each other, otherwise they will breed with their siblings.
+Supplement with a small cup of greens or other vegetables each day - rabbits can eat a wide variety, including flowers and herbs. Fruit can also be given as a treat, but no more than 2 teaspoonfuls a day.
-==Mice clubs==
+Although rabbits graze throughout the day, they take most of their food at dawn and dusk, so it's best to provide 2 regular meals - one in the morning and one in the early evening.
-Many fancy mice clubs have been set up around the globe. Shows are also held so owners can display their mice, where they are judged on color and behavior.
+====Housing====
+Many rabbits do very well in the home. They can be litter box-trained and are quite fastidious groomers. Be aware that rabbits love to chew, so make sure all wires are safely hidden or in protective plastic covers and understand that some of your furniture may be nibbled. If the Rabbit nips or bites you it is probably only out of curiosity. If you choose to cage your rabbit, make sure the cage is at least 2 feet by 2 feet by 4 feet. If the cage has a wire bottom, make certain you give the rabbit a plank or sea grass mats to stand on so his feet won’t get damaged from being on the wire all the time. Provide a hide box or shelter and plenty of straw for bedding.
+====Common Diseases and Disorders====
+As with other rabbits, Dutch rabbits do not do well in high or low temperatures. They are prone to hairball obstructions and matted coats if not cared for properly. Rabbits need daily grooming to remove loose hair. Other health concerns include earmites, [[Pasteurella]], respiratory disease, dental problems, urinary bladder stones and fractured backs. Be quick to notice any changes in diet or litter box habits and contact a rabbit veterinarian immediately.
+The average life span of a breeding Dutch rabbit is 5 to 6 years. By [[spaying or neutering]] early in life, you can increase their life expectancy to around 10 years.
+==See also==
+*[[Rabbit]]
+*[[Domestic Rabbit]]
+*[[Tuxedo cat]]; sometimes the term Dutch rabbit is used to refer to bicolour cats also known by the term Jellicle cat, Blackmask cat or Tuxedo cat.
 ==External links==
-*[http://www.fancymice.info Fancy Mice]
-*[http://www.rmca.org Rat & Mouse Club of America]
-*[http://www.miceandrats.com/miceas.htm Mice as Pets]
-*Varieties of [http://www.miceandrats.com/standmic.htm Fancy Mice]
-*[http://www.nationalmouseclub.co.uk National Mouse Club]
-*[http://www.dmrm.de Mouse Club of Germany]
-*[http://www.svemus.org Swedish Mouse Club]
-*[http://mus.ifokus.se Swedish Mouse Community]
-*[http://midwestmouseclub.org Midwest Mouse Club (US)]
-*[http://pzhmmr.w.interia.pl/ Polish Mouse Club ]
-*[http://www.altpet.net/ Alternative Pet Association National Org.]
-{{Pet Species}}
-[[Category:Pet rodents]]
+*[http://www.arba.net American Rabbit Breeder's Association]
+[[Category:Pet rabbits]]
-[[de:Farbmaus]]
+[[de: Holländerkaninchen]]
-[[fi:Kesyhiiri]]