Difference between revisions of "AY Honors/Canoeing/Answer Key/es"

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It is far more difficult to enter a canoe from a dock or pier than from a beach.  This is because the canoe will not sit on the bottom of the river or lake helping to steady it as people enter.  Instead, paddlers must be very careful to keep their weight centered over the keel until firmly in position.  Once the first person is in the boat, that person should assume a kneeling position with the knees spread as far apart as the canoe will allow.  This will allow the person to easily and quickly shift his or her weight to either the left or the right to steady the canoe as the other paddler enters.  The paddler should also grip the dock or pier firmly to keep the canoe from pushing away while the partner has one foot in the boat and the other on the dock. 
 
 
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The push over stroke is more often called a pry.  This stroke is designed to move the canoe sideways.  It is executed by inserting the paddle into the water with the power face pointing away from the keel.  The center of the paddle is rested on the gunwale while the top of the paddle is pulled toward the center of the boat.  As this is done, the blade should move away from the boat.
 
 
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A full sweep is another steering stroke that can be executed from either the bow or the stern.  In both instances, the paddle is inserted into the water well ahead of the paddler with the power face parallel to the keel.  The paddle is then swept through a 180° arc.
 
  
 
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The combination draw and J-stroke is exactly what it seems to be - a combination of a draw stroke followed by a J-stroke.  This stroke is only executed from the stern and is used to gradually steer the canoe to the left if made on the left side of the canoe, or to the right if made from the right side of the canoe.
 
  
 
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<!-- 4. Alone and with a companion in both the bow and stern, paddle a canoe in a straight course for 100 yards (91.4 meters). Turn right about and left about. The paddle should be kept always on the same side of the canoe. Demonstrate two kneeling positions for paddling. -->
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<!-- 4. Solo y con un compañero en la proa y popa, remar una canoa en un curso recto por 100 yardas (90 metros). Girar a la derecha y girar a la izquierda. La paleta debe mantenerse siempre en el mismo lado de la canoa. Demostrar dos posiciones de las rodillas para remar. -->
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===Paddling a straight course===
 
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The easiest way to paddle a straight course while keeping the paddle on the same side of the canoe is for the sternman to use the J-stroke.  The bowman can paddle from either side of the canoe using bow strokes.  When paddling solo, it is best to sit in the bow seat with the canoe turned around so that the stern (the back of the canoe) becomes the front.  By doing this, the paddler will be positioned closer to the middle of the canoe, because the bow seat is closer to the center than the stern seat.  Again, the J-stroke should be used.
 
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===Turning===
 
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If paddling on the right side of the canoe, the sternman can effect a left turn by applying simple bow strokes.  The canoe will turn left.  To turn right while paddling on the right side of the canoe, the sternman applies reverse bow strokes while the bowman applies draw strokes.  Both turns can also be effected with forward and/or reverse sweeps.
 
  
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===Kneeling positions===
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Kneeling in a canoe gives it greater stability because it lowers the center of gravity.  It also allows the paddler greater control over the canoe's side-to-side tilt because the weight can be quickly shifted to the left or to the right to counter tipping.  When sitting, this is more difficult to do because shifting the weight from one buttock to the other does not have much effect. 
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The first kneeling position is to place both knees on the bottom of the canoe and rest the buttocks against the front edge of the seat.  The second kneeling position is similar, except that only one knee is on the bottom - the other knee is raised and the foot is on the bottom of the boat (as if proposing marriage).  The paddler may still lean against the front edge of the seat.
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First maneuver the rescue canoe such that it is perpendicular to the swamped canoe, with either the bow or the stern of the swamped canoe near the center of the rescue canoe.  Turn the swamped canoe upside down (if it is not in this position already).  One rescuer may then reach over the gunwales, take hold of the bow or stern of the swamped canoe and lift it onto the gunwale.  The other rescuer should counterbalance the rescue canoe while this is being done to prevent the rescue canoe from swamping as well.  This is done by having the rescuer shift his or her weight to the opposite side of the rescue canoe.
 
  
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Once the bow or stern is resting on the gunwales, the swimmers should help by pushing the swamped canoe up onto the gunwales of the rescue canoe (so that the gunwales of both canoes are in contact).  The rescuers will also draw it across.  When the swamped canoe is centered on the gunwales of the rescue canoe, one rescuer will roll the swamped canoe right-side-up.  The other rescuer will catch it as it rolls around.  The keel of the rescued canoe will then be sitting on the gunwales of the rescue boat, and can then be slid back into the water.
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The rescuers then gently shove the canoe off their gunwales back into the water.  Be careful not to hit the swimmers.
 
  
 
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The canoe is then turned parallel to the rescue canoe, and both rescuers will hold the gunwales of the two canoes firmly together.  The swimmers may then re-enter the canoe from the opposite side (it is best for them to do this one at a time).
 
  
 
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<!-- 6. Jump out of a canoe in deep water and get back in again in the proper form without shipping water. (Candidate must be accompanied by lifeguard in an equipped lifeboat.)  -->
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<!-- 6. Saltar afuera de la canoa en aguas profundas y volver a entrar de nuevo en la forma apropiada trayendo la menor cantidad de agua posible (el candidato debe estar acompañado por un salvavidas en un bote salvavidas equipado). -->
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The least risky way to jump out of a canoe is by jumping off the deck (that is, jumping off the bow to the front of the canoe, or jumping off the stern to the rear). 
 
  
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The paddler should then swim to the center of the canoe and grab the gunwales with both hands.  The hands should be positioned about a shoulder-width apart.  The paddler then lifts himself up, throwing the torso across the gunwales and getting as much body weight over the keel as possible.  If possible, one hand should reach across the canoe to the opposite gunwale during this motion.  With the belt-line over the near gunwale, the paddler may then swing his legs aboard.
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The Pathfinder should wear a swimsuit beneath an outer layer of clothing for this requirement.
 
 
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This is surprisingly difficult in some canoes, but can be accomplished by leaning the canoe over as far as possible, then standing on the gunwale.  As soon as the gunwale dips below the surface of the water, capsizing will quickly follow.
 
 
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Swim alongside the canoe and lift the gunwale back above the surface.  The canoe should not sink even when it's full of water.
 
 
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This is done just as described previously, except that the canoe is almost certain to ship more water.  Don't worry about it.  Once you get inside, it is very possible that both gunwales will still be submerged below the surface.  It is sometimes possible to get some of the water out by lifting the bow or stern as high as you can while the canoe is still upside-down.  Then with a quick motion, throw the canoe higher with a twisting motion to right it.
 
 
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Removing wet clothing is more difficult than it seems it should be.  It tends to cling to the body.  Wear a swimsuit that stays on under the outer layer.  Choose loose clothing if possible.  A shirt that buttons will be easier to get off than a pull-over.  Jump back into the water, take hold of a rope tied to the bow (or a grab-loop), and swim until you are in shallow water.
 
  
 
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Once the canoe is in shallow water, turn it on its side and continue to haul it onto the beach.  This will empty it of most water.  If you attempt to haul it out of the water while it is still full, you will find that it is ''very'' heavy, and it may not even be possible for you to turn it over or move it.  This is why it should be turned on its side or even upside-down.  Once most of the water is out of the canoe, it is a simple matter to pull it onto shore.
 
  
 
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<!-- 8. Fully satisfy the examiner of a thorough knowledge of safety rules which will make the candidate a safe canoeist and competent to take others out in a canoe. Promise to observe these rules at all times. -->
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<!-- 8. Demostrar de manera satisfactoria al examinador sobre un conocimiento profundo de las normas de seguridad que hará al candidato un piragüista seguro y competente para sacar a los demás en una canoa. Prometer observar estar normas en todo momento. -->
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# Wear a Personal Flotation Device (PFD) at all times.
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# Do not drink alcohol while canoeing
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# Paddle directly into or away from the wake made by power boats (broadside waves can easily capsize a canoe).
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# If you capsize in still water, stay with the canoe. 
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# If you capsize in swift current, try to get upstream relative to the canoe so that it will not pin you on a rock.  A canoe full of water easily weighs {{units|1200 kg|2.3 tons}}, and if it pins you against a rock, you are ''not'' going to lift a 1200 kg canoe off yourself.  The only other available option is to drown, and that is not a very attractive option at all. 
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# If you find yourself swimming in a rapid, roll onto your back and float with your feet going downstream first and your toes out of the water.  This will prevent your foot from catching a rock and it getting trapped.  Many people have drowned as a result of foot-entrapment.
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# Kneel in the bottom of the canoe in rough water.  This increases the boat's stability by lowering its center of gravity, and it gives you better control of the canoe.
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# Do not paddle in water that presents a greater challenge than your abilities.  Do not be too embarrassed to admit that a rapid is too difficult for you.  You won't be able to admit it if you drown.
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# Do not paddle farther from shore than you can swim.
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# Load the canoe properly so that it is balanced from bow to stern and from side to side.
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# Stay away from low-head dams.  They may look innocuous, but they are ''very'' dangerous.  Do not approach them from upstream or from downstream.
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# Never paddle alone.
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# Do not paddle into tree branches, especially if they are underwater.  Water will pass right through, but if you fall out of the canoe, you will be pinned against them.  Moving water is very powerful.  You are puny in comparison.  Water moving through a hydro-electric dam can generate enough electricity to power a city (including subway trains).  If water is powerful enough to move a train, it is powerful enough to hold you under water pinned to a tree branch.
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# Do not stand in a canoe until you have sufficient skill and experience to do so.  Many people would argue that you should ''never'' stand in a canoe, but if you have sufficient skill, standing will allow a better view of the river ahead.  This can be crucial above a rapid.  That said, most people do ''not'' have sufficient skill.  As the instructor of this honor, it's up to you to decide how to teach this "rule."
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# Don't be an idiot.  If something looks dangerous, it probably is.
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For both of these situations, duct tape is the paddler's best friend.
 
 
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Land the canoe on a beach, get it in the sun, flip it upside down.  Dry the affected area as best you can with whatever you have.  Let the sun do the rest.  Apply a strip of duct tape to the outside of the hull, covering the hole completely.  Then turn the boat right-side-up again, dry the inside of the hull around the hole, and cover it with duct tape as well.
 
  
 
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Find a straight tree branch about {{units|2.5 cm|an inch}} in diameter and {{units|60 cm|two feet}} long.  Join the two halves of the paddle together as best you can, then position the tree branch along side it.  Wrap the paddle shaft and the branch with several turns of duct tape, both above and below the break.  Paddle gently.
 
  
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Once back from your trip, a more permanent repair can be made.  Sand your paddle down right to the wood above and below the break.  Drill {{units|5cm|2 inches}} straight up into the center of the paddle shaft in both directions of the break.  Cut the head off of a bolt the same diameter as your hole.  Use a good quality marine epoxy to glue a 4" bolt in place in that hole.  Wrap fiberglass cloth around the break and epoxy it in place.  Now sand down the entire paddle and varnish.  You will now have a strong lasting repair on your paddle.  If the break was over where you grip the paddle, you may want to consider wrapping a thin twine around the shaft to make the grip even more comfortable, this process is called frapping or serving.
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==Reference==
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Latest revision as of 19:57, 25 July 2022

Other languages:
English • ‎español
Canotaje

Nivel de destreza

2

Año

1945

Version

16.11.2024

Autoridad de aprobación

Asociación General

Canoeing AY Honor.png
Canotaje
Actividades recreacionales
Nivel de destreza
123
Autoridad de aprobación
Asociación General
Año de introducción
1945
Vea también
Maestría Acuática
Canotaje - Avanzado


1

Tener la especialidad de Natación II.


Para consejos e instrucciones, véase Natación II.


2

Demostrar, primero solo y luego con un compañero, el buen método de:


2a

Introducir y lanzar (botadura) una canoa


i

Desde una playa



ii

Desde el muelle o embarcadero




2b

Atracar y dejar una canoa


i

En una playa



ii

Desde el muelle o embarcadero





3

Acompañado por el consejero que lo examina, demostrar correctamente las siguientes remadas:


3a

Proa (bow)



3b

Arrastre diagonal



3c

Arrastrado medio a la derecha



3d

Remadas en forma de J



3e

Arrastrado medio a la izquierda



3f

Empuje lateral



3g

Arrastrado completo



3h

Combinación de arrastrado y remadas en forma de J




4

Solo y con un compañero en la proa y popa, remar una canoa en un curso recto por 100 yardas (90 metros). Girar a la derecha y girar a la izquierda. La paleta debe mantenerse siempre en el mismo lado de la canoa. Demostrar dos posiciones de las rodillas para remar.



5

Demostrar con una canoa el rescate de un compañero que su canoa zozobró al:


5a

Vaciar la canoa inundada de agua acercándola y volteándola y bajándola a la borda de la canoa de salvamento.



5b

Echar al agua la canoa rescatada de nuevo.



5c

Mantener firme la canoa mientras su compañero sube a bordo.




6

Saltar afuera de la canoa en aguas profundas y volver a entrar de nuevo en la forma apropiada trayendo la menor cantidad de agua posible (el candidato debe estar acompañado por un salvavidas en un bote salvavidas equipado).



7

Con la ropa puesta:


7a

Volcar (zozobrar) una canoa en aguas profundas.



7b

Enderezar la canoa y guardar los remos y colchonetas para las rodillas.



7c

Colocarse en la canoa llena de agua y remar con las manos o con el remo por 25 yardas (24 metros).



7d

Quitarse la ropa, guardarla junto con el remo, lanzarse por la borda, sostener la canoa por la proa con una mano, nadar y remolcar la canoa inundada hasta la orilla.



7e

Vaciar la canoa correctamente y llevarla a tierra para atracarlo (el candidato debe estar acompañado por un salvavidas en un bote salvavidas equipado).




8

Demostrar de manera satisfactoria al examinador sobre un conocimiento profundo de las normas de seguridad que hará al candidato un piragüista seguro y competente para sacar a los demás en una canoa. Prometer observar estar normas en todo momento.





9

Explicar cómo hacer los siguientes trabajos de reparación de emergencia:


9a

Reparar un agujero de una pulgada (tres centímetros) en una canoa de fibra de vidrio, lona y aluminio.



9b

La reparación del mango del remo roto.





Referencias

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