|
|
| (8 intermediate revisions by the same user not shown) |
| Line 133: |
Line 133: |
| | {{clear}} | | {{clear}} |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | More sophisticated aquarists may make other modifications to their base water source to modify the water's alkalinity, hardness, or dissolved content of organics and gases, before adding it to their aquaria. This can be accomplished by a range of different additives, such as sodium bicarbonate to raise pH. Some aquarists will even filter or purify their water prior to adding it to their aquarium. There are two processes used for that: deionization or reverse osmosis. In contrast, public aquaria with large water needs often locate themselves near a natural water source (such as a river, lake, or ocean) in order to have easy access to a large volume of water that does not require much further treatment.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | The temperature of the water forms the basis of one of the two most basic aquarium classifications: tropical vs. cold water. Most fish and plant species tolerate only a limited range of water temperatures: Tropical or warm water aquaria, with an average temperature of about 25 °C (77 °F), are much more common, and tropical fish are among the most popular aquarium denizens. Cold water aquaria are those with temperatures below what would be considered tropical; a variety of fish are better suited to this cooler environment. More importantly than the temperature range itself is the consistency in temperature; most organisms are not accustomed to sudden changes in temperatures, which could cause shock and lead to disease. Water temperature can be regulated with a combined thermometer and heater unit (or, more rarely, with a cooling unit).
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | Water movement can also be important in accurately simulating a natural ecosystem. Aquarists may prefer anything from still water up to swift simulated currents in an aquarium, depending on the conditions best suited for the aquarium's inhabitants. Water movement can be controlled through the use of aeration from air pumps, powerheads, and careful design of internal water flow (such as location of filtration system points of inflow and outflow).
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | ===Nitrogen cycle===
| |
| − | Of primary concern to the aquarist is management of the biological waste produced by an aquarium's inhabitants. Fish, invertebrates, fungi, and some bacteria excrete nitrogen waste in the form of ammonia (which will convert to ammonium, in acidic water) and must then pass through the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is also produced through the decomposition of plant and animal matter, including fecal matter and other detritus. Nitrogen waste products become toxic to fish and other aquarium inhabitants at high concentrations.
| |
| − | ====The Process====
| |
| − | A well-balanced tank contains organisms that are able to metabolize the waste products of other aquarium residents. The nitrogen waste produced in a tank is metabolized in aquaria by a type of bacteria known as nitrifiers (genus Nitrosomonas). Nitrifying bacteria capture ammonia from the water and metabolize it to produce nitrite. Nitrite is also highly toxic to fish in high concentrations. Another type of bacteria, genus Nitrospira, converts nitrite into nitrate, a less toxic substance to aquarium inhabitants. (Nitrobacter bacteria were previously believed to fill this role, and continue to be found in commercially available products sold as kits to "jump start" the nitrogen cycle in an aquarium. While biologically they could theoretically fill the same niche as Nitrospira, it has recently been found that Nitrobacter are not present in detectable levels in established aquaria, while Nitrospira are plentiful.) This process is known in the aquarium hobby as the nitrogen cycle.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | In addition to bacteria, aquatic plants also eliminate nitrogen waste by metabolizing ammonia and nitrate. When plants metabolize nitrogen compounds, they remove nitrogen from the water by using it to build biomass. However, this is only temporary, as the plants release nitrogen back into the water when older leaves die off and decompose.
| |
| − | ====Maintaining the Tank====
| |
| − | Although informally called the nitrogen cycle by hobbyists, it is in fact only a portion of a true cycle: nitrogen must be added to the system (usually through food provided to the tank inhabitants), and nitrates accumulate in the water at the end of the process, or become bound in the biomass of plants. This accumulation of nitrates in home aquaria requires the aquarium keeper to remove water that is high in nitrates, or remove plants which have grown from the nitrates.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | Aquaria kept by hobbyists often do not have the requisite populations of bacteria needed to detoxify nitrogen waste from tank inhabitants. This problem is most often addressed through two filtration solutions: Activated carbon filters absorb nitrogen compounds and other toxins from the water, while biological filters provide a medium specially designed for colonization by the desired nitrifying bacteria. Activated carbon and other substances, such as ammonia absorbing resins, will stop working when their pores get full, so these components have to be replaced with fresh stocks constantly.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | New aquaria often have problems associated with the nitrogen cycle due to insufficient number of beneficial bacteria, known as the "New Tank Syndrome". Therefore, new tanks have to be "matured" before stocking them with fish. There are three basic approaches to this: the fishless cycle, the silent cycle, and slow growth.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | No fish are kept in a tank undergoing a fishless cycle. Instead, small amounts of ammonia are added to the tank to feed the bacteria being cultured. During this process, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels are tested to monitor progress. The silent cycle is basically nothing more than densely stocking the aquarium with fast-growing aquatic plants and relying on them to consume the nitrogen, allowing the necessary bacterial populations time to develop. According to anecdotal reports of aquarists specializing in planted tanks, the plants can consume nitrogenous waste so efficiently that the spikes in ammonia and nitrite levels normally seen in more traditional cycling methods are greatly reduced, if they are detectable at all. More commonly slow growth entails slowly increasing the population of fish over a period of 6 to 8 weeks, giving bacteria colonies time to grow and stabilize with the increase in fish waste.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | The largest bacterial populations are found in the filter; efficient filtration is vital. Sometimes, a vigorous cleaning of the filter is enough to seriously disturb the biological balance of an aquarium. Therefore, it is recommended to rinse mechanical filters in an outside bucket of aquarium water to dislodge organic materials that contribute to nitrate problems, while preserving bacteria populations. Another safe practice consists of cleaning only one half of the filter media every time the filter or filters are serviced.
| |
| − | ===Biological Loading===
| |
| − | Biological loading is a measure of the burden placed on the aquarium ecosystem by its living inhabitants. High biological loading in an aquarium represents a more complicated tank ecology, which in turn means that equilibrium is easier to perturb. In addition, there are several fundamental constraints on biological loading based on the size of an aquarium. The surface area of water exposed to air limits dissolved oxygen intake by the tank. The capacity of nitrifying bacteria is limited by the physical space they have available to colonize. Physically, only a limited size and number of plants and animals can be fit into an aquarium while still providing room for movement.
| |
| − | ====Calculating aquarium capacity====
| |
| − | An aquarium can only support a certain number of fish. Limiting factors include the availability of oxygen in the water and the rate at which the filter can process waste. Aquarists have developed a number of rules of thumb to allow them to estimate the number of fishes that can be kept in a given aquarium; the examples below are for small freshwater fish as larger freshwater fish and most marine fishes need much more generous allowances.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | * 3 cm of fish length per 4 liters of water (i.e., a 6 cm-long fish would need about 8 liters of water).
| |
| − | * 1 cm of fish length per 30 square centimeters of surface area.
| |
| − | * 1 inch of fish length per gallon of water.
| |
| − | * 1 inch of fish length per 12 square inches of surface area.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | Experienced aquarists warn against applying these rules too strictly because they do not consider other important issues such as growth rate, activity level, social behavior, and so on. To some degree, establishing the maximum loading capacity of an aquarium depends upon slowly adding fish and monitoring water quality over time, essentially a trial and error approach.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | ====Factors affecting capacity====
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | Though many conventional methods of calculating the capacity of aquarium is based on volume and pure length of fish, there are other variables. One variable is differences between fish. Smaller fish consume more oxygen per gram of body weight than larger fish. Labyrinth fish, having the capability to breathe atmospheric oxygen, are noted for not needing as much surface area (however, some of these fish are territorial, and may not appreciate crowding). Barbs also require more surface area than tetras of comparable size.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | Oxygen exchange at the surface is an important constraint, and thus the surface area of the aquarium. Some aquarists go so far as to say that a deeper aquarium with more volume holds no more fish than a shallower aquarium of the same surface area. The capacity can be improved by surface movement and water circulation such as through aeration, which not only improves oxygen exchange, but also the decomposition of waste materials.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | The presence of waste materials presents itself as a variable as well. Decomposition is an oxygen-consuming process, therefore the more decaying matter there is, the less oxygen as well. Oxygen dissolves less readily in warmer water; this is a double-edged sword as warmer temperatures make more active fish, which in turn consume even more oxygen. Stress due to temperature changes is especially obvious in coldwater aquaria where the temperature may swing from low temperatures to high temperatures on hotter days.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | <noinclude> | |
| − | </div></noinclude>
| |
| | {{CloseReq}} <!-- 5 --> | | {{CloseReq}} <!-- 5 --> |
| | {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=6}} | | {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=6}} |
| − | <noinclude><div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr"> | + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | </noinclude> | + | <!-- 6. Construire un aquarium d'environ vingt litres avec des plantes et des poissons tropicaux ou du pays, et l’entretenir pendant au moins six mois. --> |
| − | <!-- 6. Fill an aquarium containing at least five gallons of water with a balance of plants and fishes, either tropical or native, and maintain the same for at least six months. --> | |
| − | This can be done by the individual Pathfinder at home, or as a group in a classroom or the regular Pathfinder meeting place. If keeping fish as a group, be sure that everyone gets to participate in all aspects of their care. The likelihood of success will be maximized by being sure to follow the guidelines set out in requirement five.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | <noinclude> | |
| − | </div></noinclude>
| |
| | {{CloseReq}} <!-- 6 --> | | {{CloseReq}} <!-- 6 --> |
| | {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=7}} | | {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=7}} |
| − | <noinclude><div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr"> | + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | </noinclude> | + | <!-- 7. Noter les effets produits sur les poissons d’aquarium lorsque: --> |
| − | <!-- 7. Note the effect of the following on the fishes and aquarium in general: --> | + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | <noinclude> | |
| − | </div></noinclude>
| |
| | {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=7a}} | | {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=7a}} |
| − | <noinclude><div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr"> | + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | </noinclude> | |
| − | During the time that aquarium plants are exposed to light, carbon dioxide is absorbed and oxygen is expelled. The gases enter the plant mainly through the leaves. The carbon dioxide and water are chemically combined with the chlorophyll in the plant to produce simple sugars. The sugars are converted to starch and oxygen is produced as the by-product. The light in your tank is most important with respect to the chlorophyll. The chlorophyll is what absorbs the light to create the process of photosynthesis. The aquarium plant naturally absorbs more nutrients through the roots during this time.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | <noinclude> | |
| − | </div></noinclude>
| |
| | {{CloseReq}} <!-- 7a --> | | {{CloseReq}} <!-- 7a --> |
| | {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=7b}} <!--T:60--> | | {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=7b}} <!--T:60--> |
| − | <noinclude><div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr"> | + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | </noinclude> | |
| − | Respiration is the opposite of photosynthesis. When the lights are out, the photosynthesis process ceases but the respiration continues. The aquarium plant will use oxygen to break down food substances, which is released as energy in the form of heat. Carbon dioxide is produced and expelled as a result of this process.
| |
| − | So, when the lights are on the plants absorb carbon dioxide and expel oxygen. When the lights are out the aquarium plants absorb oxygen and expel carbon dioxide.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | <noinclude> | |
| − | </div></noinclude>
| |
| | {{CloseReq}} <!-- 7b --> | | {{CloseReq}} <!-- 7b --> |
| | {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=7c}} <!--T:61--> | | {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=7c}} <!--T:61--> |
| − | <noinclude><div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr"> | + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | </noinclude> | |
| − | Overfeeding is one of the major causes of fish loss. Overfeeding promotes fish waste (ammonia) to build up to a harmful level. It is best to feed your betta only enough food that it can eat in five minutes. If food is seen sitting on the bottom of the aquarium or bowl, the fish have been overfed.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | <noinclude> | |
| − | </div></noinclude>
| |
| | {{CloseReq}} <!-- 7c --> | | {{CloseReq}} <!-- 7c --> |
| | {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=7d}} <!--T:62--> | | {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=7d}} <!--T:62--> |
| − | <noinclude><div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr"> | + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | </noinclude> | |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | Rapid changes in water temperatures stress your fish. when fish are stressed they are more susceptible to disease and sickness.
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | <noinclude> | |
| − | </div></noinclude>
| |
| | {{CloseReq}} <!-- 7d --> | | {{CloseReq}} <!-- 7d --> |
| | {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=7e}} <!--T:64--> | | {{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=7e}} <!--T:64--> |
| − | <noinclude><div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr"> | + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | </noinclude> | |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | {{clear}} |
| − | Fish need plants in the wild for shelter, food, filtration, and oxygen. In an aquarium you supply their main source of food
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | <noinclude> | |
| − | </div></noinclude>
| |
| | {{CloseReq}} <!-- 7e --> | | {{CloseReq}} <!-- 7e --> |
| | {{CloseReq}} <!-- 7 --> | | {{CloseReq}} <!-- 7 --> |
| − | <noinclude><div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr"> | + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | </noinclude> | |
| − | ==Notes==
| |
| − | When to use ''fish'' or ''fishes''. Use ''fish'' when talking about a school of the same species. Use ''fishes'' when talking about schools of different species. Any time you are talking about more than one species, use ''fishes''. <ref>http://www.amonline.net.au/fishes/what/fish.htm</ref>
| |
| − | </div>
| |
| | | | |
| − | <div lang="en" dir="ltr" class="mw-content-ltr">
| + | ==Références== |
| − | ==References== | + | <noinclude></noinclude> |
| − | *[[w:List of freshwater aquarium fish species|List of freshwater aquarium fish species]]
| |
| − | <references/>
| |
| − | <noinclude> | |
| − | </div></noinclude>
| |
| | {{CloseHonorPage}} | | {{CloseHonorPage}} |
