Difference between revisions of "AY Honors/Leather Craft/Answer Key"

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'''''':''This '''article''' describes leather carving in detail.  For information about leather craft in general, please see [[Leather crafting]]''
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'''Leather carving''' is the process of giving a three-dimensional appearance to [[leather]] by a process of cutting and stamping the surface.
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<!-- 1. List the necessary tools a beginner needs in leather craft and demonstrate the proper use of each. -->
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Most leather craft starter kits come with the following:
  
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== Materials ==
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<!--T:2-->
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The only type of leather suitable for carving is vegetable tanned, full grain leather.  This is because the vegetable tanning process allows the leather to absorb water, which is used to soften the leather before the carving process, and the grain of the leather is necessary to allow the leather to hold the shape after the carving process is complete.  Other leathers lack these two essential qualities.
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* A few pieces of leather
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* Stamping tools
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* A Mallet
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* Swivel knife
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* Leather coloring
  
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== Tools ==
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<!--T:3-->
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Leather carving is ''accomplished'' using three main tools:
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You will also need a sturdy work surface.
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* [[Swivel knife]] - used to make the bold cuts that define the pattern or image being carved
 
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* [[Rawhide]] [[mallet]] - used to drive the stamps used to mat down the background and create shading and patterns
 
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* Stamp set - A set of stamping tools used to shape and color the leather to create the final image.  Usually contains at minimum a beveler, pear shader, seeder, and background tool, but sets often contain other tools and sometimes several variations on the same tool.
 
  
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=== Stamping tools===
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<!--T:4-->
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Additionally, if you wish to lace the leather and do not have a pre-punched leather blank, you will need a leather punch. This tool is similar to a hole punch for paper, but it may have several punch sizes. These are often arranged in a star-shape so that the device resembles an equestrian spur.
  
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<!--T:5-->
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The first step in working with leather is to lay out the design (see requirement 4).
  
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==== Camouflage Tool ====
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<!--T:6-->
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This tool, which creates an impression similar to that of a sea shell, is used to add emphasis to areas of a carving, often in the stem or down the centre of a leaf in a floral design.  It is used in a similar way to other stamping tools, by holding it vertically over the leather and striking with the rawhide mallet. When using the Camouflage tool, the impressions created should be equally spaced, starting from the centre of the design and working out towards the tips of the stems or leaves in the design.  The impressions should get progressively lighter.
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Once the design is ready, the leather should be moistened. Moistening softens the leather and makes it more amenable to having an impression made on it by the stamp. The leather is then placed flat on the work surface in front of the crafter. Then the stamp is placed on a section of the leather where the design calls for an impression to be made. The crafter carefully holds the stamp in a vertical position with the stamp face held against the leather. Then the top of the stamp is struck sharply with the mallet.
  
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==== Pear Shader ====
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<!--T:7-->
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The Pear Shader is used to press down areas of the design that need to appear curved. The action of the pear shader causes the leather tooled by it to appear slightly darker. The pear shader is slightly unusual in that it may be tilted during use to provide the desired effect.  It should be moved only slightly between each tap with the mallet so that it creates a consistent shading of the leather.
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Once this is done, the stamp is moved to an adjacent area, and the mallet is brought to bear once again. This is repeated until all the areas that are to be impressed have been impressed. The crafter may switch to any number of different stamps as called for in the design.
  
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==== Veiner or Shell Tool ====
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<!--T:8-->
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These tools create a curved impression of a series of short, closely spaced lines.  They may be used interchangeably, the only difference being that the veiner creates a simple curved line, while the shell tool has a pattern resembling the edge of a scallop along the inside edge.  They are used to continue to create the impression of depth created by the beveler, and to create the impression of a curved surface.  These tools are used in the usual way, but like the pear shader, may also be tilted to help create the impression of depth where they are used beside a cut.
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Once the design has been stamped into the leather, the leather may be cut to shape (though cutting can also be done before stamping).
  
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==== Seeder ====
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<!--T:9-->
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The seeder creates a small circular impression, that is used to represent seeds.  As the face of this tool is so small, care must be taken when striking that you do not cut right through the leather. If stamping an area using this tool, stamp around the outside first, then fill in the centre.
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The piece is then ready for a finish. (See requirement 5).
  
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==== Background Tool ====
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<!--T:28-->
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This step in producing a carved leather article is used to emphasise the design, and is not even necessary in some cases.  It consists of the pushing down of any areas of leather that have not been already carved.  The background tool has a crosshatched pattern on its head, which has the effect of significantly darkening the leather it is used on.  As with the seeder, the face of this tool is often small, so care must be taken not to strike it too hard.
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<!-- 2. Know how to distinguish different kinds of leather, such as calf, goat, and imitation leather. What leathers are most suitable for tooling? -->
  
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When using this tool, take care that the impressions created by it do not overlap, and also take care not to stamp into the design or over the border. When the entire face of the tool is not needed, or to create tidy corners, the tool can be tilted so only part of the face creates an impression.
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<!--T:11-->
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;Calfskin: Calfskin is a soft leather with dense grain. The hair follicles are tightly packed in a random pattern.
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;Goatskin: Goatskin is softer and generally more stretchy than calfskin, but it too has a dense grain. The hair follicles are arranged in rows. Tanned leather from goatskin is considered extremely durable and is commonly used to make rugs (for example in Indonesia) and carpet binding. It is often used for gloves, boots, and other products that require a soft hide. Kid gloves, popular in Victorian times, are still made today.
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;Imitation leather: Imitation leather can be distinguished from genuine leather by its appearance, odor, and feel. The flesh side of genuine leather is fuzzy, whereas the "flesh" side of imitation leather is either smooth, or even cloth-backed.
  
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==== Other Stamps ====
 
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There are many other stamps that may be employed in stamping leather, too many to list here.  Many may be adapted for use in carved designs, and these will be found with practice.
 
  
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== Procedure ==
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<!--T:12-->
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Do not be fooled by the term "top grain leather." Top grain leather is not, as its name implies, the top layer of the animal's hide. Leather, in its natural form is quite thick, so it is split into layers. The outermost layer is called "full grain." Top grain leather is the next layer beneath.
  
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Casing .all leather needs to be prepared a certan way fpr leather carvers to carve the leather. The leather carver soakes the leather with water ,thus making the leather easer to tool.
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<!--T:13-->
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The only type of leather suitable for tooling is vegetable tanned, full grain leather. This is because the vegetable tanning process allows the leather to absorb water, which is used to soften the leather before the carving process, and the grain of the leather is necessary to allow the leather to hold the shape after the carving process is complete. Other leathers lack these two essential qualities.
  
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=== Swivel knife cuts ===
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<!--T:30-->
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When the leather has been properly cased, the swivel knife is used to make the bold cuts that form the backbone of the carved image. These cuts are made to a depth of up to approximately half the thickness of the leather being used, depending on the effect desired by the leather worker.  Care must be taken during this step to keep the swivel knife vertical at all times, as any tilt is detrimental to the ability of the leather to be properly stamped later in the carving process.
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<!-- 3. Give the steps necessary in the preparation of leather. -->
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All leather needs to be prepared before it can be tooled. The leather carver soaks the leather with water, thus making the leather easier to tool.
  
 +
<!--T:15-->
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One point to note is that if leather is too wet, it will not hold a sharply defined carving. Properly cased leather should be cool to the touch, and should feel like wet clay.
  
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=== Beveling the cuts ===
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<!--T:16-->
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After shading is completed with the Pear Shader, the Beveler is used to compress one side of the cut. This creates the impression of depth by pressing down parts of the image relative to the foreground.  The Beveler is used by holding it vertically, with the foot of the tool in contact with the leather, and striking it lightly with the rawhide mallet.  The tool is then moved forward along the cut about half its width, and struck again with the mallet.  This process is completed until the entire length of the cut has been appropriately beveled.
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A good way to test if the leather is properly cased is to fold the corner. Properly cased leather should fold smoothly and hold a crease well.
  
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As a general rule, the outside of curves and the outside edge of anything overlapping another part of the design should be beveled.  The exception to this rule is leather that will later be stamped with another tool, and, if the background is to be treated with the background tool, the background itself.
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<!--T:17-->
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Leather can be cased by spraying it with a mist of water, or by going over it with a damp sponge.
  
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<!-- 4. Transfer a design to leather, and tool and lace some object in leather, such as a billfold, magazine cover, belt, key keeper, or small purse. -->
 +
Make (or obtain) a full-size diagram outlining the design on paper. Place carbon paper on the leather, and then place the pattern on top of it. Trace over the pattern with a pencil, and the carbon paper will mark the leather. Be sure to trace where all cuts are to be made, as well as any holes that will need to be punched. The design may also include a pattern for stamping.
  
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=== Dress Cuts ===
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<!--T:19-->
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This is the final step in creating a carved design.  The swivel knife is again used to create small, decorative cuts in the design to enhance its appearance.  These cuts may be made in parts of the design that have already been stamped, which is why it is necessary to leave this step until last.
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Cut the pieces out with a sharp swivel knife. Be sure to lay the leather on a surface that will not be damaged by the knife (a regular kitchen cutting board works great for this, but you can also use a piece of scrap wood).
  
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<!--T:20-->
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Once the pieces have been cut out, you will need to punch holes with a leather punch to allow the pieces to be laced together. Select a punch size that is just big enough to allow the lace you have selected to pass through. Do not lace it up until you have done any tooling you intend to do. It's a lot easier to tool the leather when it is in its flat, two-dimensional form, versus having to contend with several layers in three dimensions.
  
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<!--T:21-->
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After tooling is complete, you can dye or paint the pieces. When the color is dry, you can lace the pieces together.
  
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<!-- 5. Show how to use leather dye. -->
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Due to changing environmental laws, alcohol-based dyes are no longer available in some localities. They have been replaced by water-based alternatives, though they tend not to work as well.
  
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[[Category:Leather]]
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<!--T:23-->
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''''''
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Leather dyeing used to involve the use of spirit or alcohol based dyes where alcohol quickly gets absorbed into moistened leather, carrying the pigment deep into the surface. "Hi-liters" and "Antiquing" stains can be used to add more definition to patterns. These have pigments that will break away from the higher points of a tooled piece and so pooling in the background areas give nice contrasts. Leaving parts unstained also provides a type of contrast. The predominant brand of leather dye is Fiebing's Leather Dye.
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<!--T:24-->
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Alternatives to spirit stains might include a number of options. Shoe polish can be used to dye and preserve leather.
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<!-- 6. What kind of finish should be used on leather? -->
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If the leather is allowed to get wet and is then flexed, the impressions may swell and fade. Once the color has dried to the crafter's satisfaction, it should be sealed with a sealing agent, such as neatsfoot oil, linseed oil, or a wax paste. This will slow the absorption of water by the leather, lengthening the life of the design.
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==References== <!--T:26-->
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* [http://www.rea.com/display_prod.cfm?p=0878914390&g=0878914420 Leathercraft & Weaving (REA's Hobbies & Crafts Series)]
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* [http://www.btinternet.com/~kingsmerecrafts/index.html Kingsmere Crafts] an excellent web site with a wealth of information about leather craft.
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Latest revision as of 15:53, 14 July 2022

Other languages:
English • ‎español
Leather Craft

Skill Level

1

Year

1937

Version

24.11.2024

Approval authority

General Conference

Leathercraft AY Honor.png
Leather Craft
Arts, Crafts and Hobbies
Skill Level
123
Approval authority
General Conference
Year of Introduction
1937
See also
Artisan Master Award
Leather Craft - Advanced
Steps to Christ


1

List the necessary tools a beginner needs in leather craft and demonstrate the proper use of each.


Most leather craft starter kits come with the following:

  • A few pieces of leather
  • Stamping tools
  • A Mallet
  • Swivel knife
  • Leather coloring

You will also need a sturdy work surface.

Additionally, if you wish to lace the leather and do not have a pre-punched leather blank, you will need a leather punch. This tool is similar to a hole punch for paper, but it may have several punch sizes. These are often arranged in a star-shape so that the device resembles an equestrian spur.

The first step in working with leather is to lay out the design (see requirement 4).

Once the design is ready, the leather should be moistened. Moistening softens the leather and makes it more amenable to having an impression made on it by the stamp. The leather is then placed flat on the work surface in front of the crafter. Then the stamp is placed on a section of the leather where the design calls for an impression to be made. The crafter carefully holds the stamp in a vertical position with the stamp face held against the leather. Then the top of the stamp is struck sharply with the mallet.

Once this is done, the stamp is moved to an adjacent area, and the mallet is brought to bear once again. This is repeated until all the areas that are to be impressed have been impressed. The crafter may switch to any number of different stamps as called for in the design.

Once the design has been stamped into the leather, the leather may be cut to shape (though cutting can also be done before stamping).

The piece is then ready for a finish. (See requirement 5).


2

Know how to distinguish different kinds of leather, such as calf, goat, and imitation leather. What leathers are most suitable for tooling?


Calfskin
Calfskin is a soft leather with dense grain. The hair follicles are tightly packed in a random pattern.
Goatskin
Goatskin is softer and generally more stretchy than calfskin, but it too has a dense grain. The hair follicles are arranged in rows. Tanned leather from goatskin is considered extremely durable and is commonly used to make rugs (for example in Indonesia) and carpet binding. It is often used for gloves, boots, and other products that require a soft hide. Kid gloves, popular in Victorian times, are still made today.
Imitation leather
Imitation leather can be distinguished from genuine leather by its appearance, odor, and feel. The flesh side of genuine leather is fuzzy, whereas the "flesh" side of imitation leather is either smooth, or even cloth-backed.


Do not be fooled by the term "top grain leather." Top grain leather is not, as its name implies, the top layer of the animal's hide. Leather, in its natural form is quite thick, so it is split into layers. The outermost layer is called "full grain." Top grain leather is the next layer beneath.

The only type of leather suitable for tooling is vegetable tanned, full grain leather. This is because the vegetable tanning process allows the leather to absorb water, which is used to soften the leather before the carving process, and the grain of the leather is necessary to allow the leather to hold the shape after the carving process is complete. Other leathers lack these two essential qualities.


3

Give the steps necessary in the preparation of leather.


All leather needs to be prepared before it can be tooled. The leather carver soaks the leather with water, thus making the leather easier to tool.

One point to note is that if leather is too wet, it will not hold a sharply defined carving. Properly cased leather should be cool to the touch, and should feel like wet clay.

A good way to test if the leather is properly cased is to fold the corner. Properly cased leather should fold smoothly and hold a crease well.

Leather can be cased by spraying it with a mist of water, or by going over it with a damp sponge.


4

Transfer a design to leather, and tool and lace some object in leather, such as a billfold, magazine cover, belt, key keeper, or small purse.


Make (or obtain) a full-size diagram outlining the design on paper. Place carbon paper on the leather, and then place the pattern on top of it. Trace over the pattern with a pencil, and the carbon paper will mark the leather. Be sure to trace where all cuts are to be made, as well as any holes that will need to be punched. The design may also include a pattern for stamping.

Cut the pieces out with a sharp swivel knife. Be sure to lay the leather on a surface that will not be damaged by the knife (a regular kitchen cutting board works great for this, but you can also use a piece of scrap wood).

Once the pieces have been cut out, you will need to punch holes with a leather punch to allow the pieces to be laced together. Select a punch size that is just big enough to allow the lace you have selected to pass through. Do not lace it up until you have done any tooling you intend to do. It's a lot easier to tool the leather when it is in its flat, two-dimensional form, versus having to contend with several layers in three dimensions.

After tooling is complete, you can dye or paint the pieces. When the color is dry, you can lace the pieces together.


5

Show how to use leather dye.


Due to changing environmental laws, alcohol-based dyes are no longer available in some localities. They have been replaced by water-based alternatives, though they tend not to work as well.

Leather dyeing used to involve the use of spirit or alcohol based dyes where alcohol quickly gets absorbed into moistened leather, carrying the pigment deep into the surface. "Hi-liters" and "Antiquing" stains can be used to add more definition to patterns. These have pigments that will break away from the higher points of a tooled piece and so pooling in the background areas give nice contrasts. Leaving parts unstained also provides a type of contrast. The predominant brand of leather dye is Fiebing's Leather Dye.

Alternatives to spirit stains might include a number of options. Shoe polish can be used to dye and preserve leather.


6

What kind of finish should be used on leather?


If the leather is allowed to get wet and is then flexed, the impressions may swell and fade. Once the color has dried to the crafter's satisfaction, it should be sealed with a sealing agent, such as neatsfoot oil, linseed oil, or a wax paste. This will slow the absorption of water by the leather, lengthening the life of the design.



References

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