AY Honors/Knot/Prusik

A prussik or prussik knot is a specialist advanced climbing technique allowing a loop of weightbearing material with a fine diameter (usually around 6mm) to be tied to a wider line (usually around 9-11mm) in a fashion that will allow it to be moved along the line. These knots can be applied even when the wider line is under tension and have multiple applications.

Equipment A prussik knot is applied using a loop of finer cord with tied ends (usually with a fishermans knot) or sown sling of around 60cm in length. These are usually then referred to as prussik loops and most experienced climbers carry a pair of these attached to their harness.

Knots The three major prussik knots are:

Kleimheist Auto-bloc (incomplete information)

These are simple knots involving wrapping the loop around the rope 3-5 times (depending on the materials) and then (usually) back through it's self. When the loop is weighted the turns tighten against the main rope preventing movement. When weight is removed the prussik loop can be slid along the line by placing a hand directly on the turns and pushing.

Applications Abseiling: A prussik loop can be used to protect during the descent, placed below a descender device and with one hand on it for controll it will act as an automatic dead mans handle should the climber be incapatited or require the use of their hands.

"Prussiking" or ascending the line: Two prussiks used in tandem can allow the experienced user to climb a rope that is fixed above them with minimal effort. One prussik is attached to the "abseil loop" sown onto the front of a harness and the other is attached to a longer length of cord reaching to one foot. With one loop attached to the rope above the other the climber can then stand up in the foot loop, slide the waist loop up and "sit" down on it. Once sat they can slide the foot loop up the rope and repeat the process.

Tying off: When belaying the hands are required on the line at all times and the belayer can not move away from the rope. Should the climber become in someway incapacitated and are in a position where they cannot be safely lowered to the ground then the belayer cannot come to their aid without appropriate skills and equipment. A special knot at this point will alow a belayer to "tie off" the belay plate a free the use of their hands. Correct applications of prussik loops will then alow them selves to move away from the belay device without endagering the climber. They can now affect a rescue or get help.

WARNING: Climbing is a sport with inherrent danger. The preceding techniques are general descriptions only and should only be practiced in a controlled environment with experienced instruction. It is recomended that you attend an official training course with certified instructors.

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