AY Honors/Wilderness Living/Answer Key
Investiture Achievement Connection: This Honor is related to the Investiture Achievement requirements for FRONTIER GUIDE Outdoor Living which require completion of this Honor or one of 4 other Honors, not previously earned. |
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These campouts can be done with your Pathfinder club, with your family, or with friends. You should also look at the requirements for the Pioneering honor, as you may be able to manage both honors on the two trips.
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What to do when Lost
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Camping/Lost
Determining Direction without a Compass
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Camping/No compass
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Catching rain water
This is probably the simplest way to collect drinking water, as long as it rains while you are camping. To catch water, simply stretch a clean tarp between trees such that the tarp is mostly horizontal. As it rains, the water will find its way off the tarp, usually in a stream. Place a basin beneath this stream and wait until it fills. You can also "tip" the water out of the tarp.
Catching dew
You can catch the morning dew by spreading a clean tarp flat on the ground. If a dew falls during the night, you can collect the water by sopping it up with a paper towel and wringing it into a container. If you forget to set a tarp out the night before, or if you do not have a tarp, you can still collect dew. Wrap a T-shirt (or other piece of cloth) around your pant legs, and then walk through the dewy grass. When the T-shirt is sufficiently wet, wring it out into a container.
Solar still
A solar still can be used to extract pure water from just about anything that is wet. Start by digging a hole 25cm deep. Place a small container in the center of the hole - this will catch the water. Place damp matter (chopped up cacti, wet leaves, etc.) in the hole around the container, and then cover the hole with a transparent plastic sheet. Weight down the edges of the plastic sheet so that it cannot slip into the hole, and place a small weight (such as a small rock) in the center of the sheet. This weight should be situated directly over the center of the container. As sunlight penetrates the sheet, it evaporates the water from the damp material in the hole. The water vapor rises until it reaches the sheet, where it condenses. As the water collects on the underside of the sheet, it runs downhill to the weight where it drips off, and hopefully, falls into the container. This will even work with urine (but reserve that for a real emergency).
From bodies of freshwater
You can also collect water from freshwater bodies such as rivers, springs, and lakes, but this water must be purified before using.
Melting snow
If you are in an area that has snow, you can collect it and melt it in a pot. It will melt faster if there is a little bit of liquid water in the pot. Do not eat snow, as this will lower your internal body temperature and increase the risk of hypothermia.
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The main reason for wishing to estimate the height of a tree and the width of a stream would be so that you could cut down a tree and use it as a bridge to cross the stream. Of course, a responsible Pathfinder would never do this without permission from the landowner, and even then, only after careful consideration. How unfortunate for you though, if you cut down a tree that was not tall enough to span the stream, and what a waste of a good tree if it were too long!
Height Estimation, Method 1
In the first method presented here, you will need a ruler, or any object with evenly spaced markings on it. Walk up to the tree, and estimate a point on it that is a mathematically convenient height from the ground (say five feet, or two meters). Mark that spot so that you can see it clearly from a distance by tying a rope around the tree at that height.
Next, walk away from the tree so that you can see its top. Hold the ruler in front of your face, such that the line of sight from your eye to the base of the tree crosses the "0" mark on the ruler. This is line A in the diagram. Then move the ruler either towards or away from your eye until the line from your eye to the rope you tied to the tree crosses the "1" mark on the ruler. This is line B in the diagram. When the ruler is positioned correctly such that lines A and B point to the base and the known height, glance up and note the measurement where the line from your eye to the top of the tree (line C in the diagram) crosses the ruler. Do this without moving the ruler or your head. When you have this measurement, multiply it by the mathematically convenient height you selected in the beginning. This is the height of the tree.
For instance, suppose you selected 2 meters as the known height on the tree, and line C crossed the 4.5 mark on the ruler:
[math]\displaystyle{ height = 4.5\times 2 meters = 9 meters }[/math]
Height Estimation, Method 2
In the second method for estimating height presented here, you will need a sheet of paper. Fold the paper so that the left edge meets the bottom edge, forming a 45° angle. Sight along the bottom of the paper so that line A in the diagram points to the base of the tree. Then move closer to or farther from the tree until the line through the fold points to the top of the tree (line B in the diagram).
Be careful to not poke yourself in the eye with the corner of the paper. In fact, it would be prudent to cut off the corner. The angle will still be correct even without it.
When the bottom of the paper points to the bottom of the tree, and the fold in the paper points to the treetop, the distance between you and the tree equals the height of the tree. Estimate this distance by pacing it off. Every two steps is roughly 5 feet, or if you prefer metric, every step is roughly 75 cm (which means every fourth step is about 3 meters). For more precision, measure your stride and use that figure.
Width Estimation, Method 1
The first method we present here for estimating the width of a stream will involve choosing an easily seen marker on the opposite side, and designating is "Marker A". Place a second marker (B) directly across the stream from marker A, and the place two more markers (C & D) along the stream bank at equal intervals. That is, be sure that the distance from B to C equals the distance from C to D. Also, try to form a 90° angle from A to B to C. Walk away from the stream at 90° from line B-D until you can see that markers A and C line up. Mark the place where this happens with marker E. If your 90° angles are accurate and the distance from B-C and C-D are equal, the distance between E-D will equal the distance between A-B (which is the width of the stream).
Width Estimation, Method 2
Method 2 for estimating the width of a stream is exactly the same as method 2 for estimating the height of a tree, except that the paper is held horizontally instead of vertically. Find a marker on the opposite side of the stream to serve as the "treetop" (this could be a rock or a tree), and mark a spot on your side of the stream bank directly across from the marker on the other side. Walk along the stream bank as you sight along the bottom edge of the folded paper to the mark on your side, and sight along the folded edge to the marker on the opposite side. Move away from the marker until both line up. Then pace off the distance between you and the marker on your side. This will be equal to the distance across the stream.
Height Estimation, Method 3
Have a person of known height stand next to the tree. Stand back a good way from the tree and sight what percentage of the tree height the person is. A little multiplication and you have a fairly accurate height estimate.
Width Estimation, Method 3
Choose a baseball size rock. Stand near the stream and throw the rock several times with equal force, ideally about as far as you estimate the river to be wide, stepping off the distance each time. Average your throws. Finally throw the same rock with the same force across the river. Compare your throw of a now known distance to the width of the river. You can also pick a tree on the other shore, than pick a tree that appears to be of equal distance but on your side of the river. Step off the distance to the second tree. These method should yield results that are close enough for most purposes.
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See the Animal Tracking honor for instruction. The easiest kinds of tracks to find in North America are deer and raccoon, but you may also be able to find squirrel and opossum tracks. Coyote tracks are nearly indistinguishable from dog and wolf tracks. If you have access to a beach that is frequented by herring gulls, you should be able to find their tracks too.
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- Knife
- A knife has many uses in a survival situation. It can be used for making fuzz sticks or wood shavings for tinder, carving wooden utensils, cutting cloth, cleaning fish, etc. Its use is limited only by your imagination.
- Waterproof matches in a waterproof container
- If it gets cold, you will need to light a fire. A fire is also necessary for boiling water (which is one way to purify it).
- Metal cup
- A metal cup (or a tin can) can be used to hold water while you boil it. It can also be used as a pot for cooking food, and as a dish for eating.
- Flint or other firestarter
- A magnesium block with a flint is an ideal backup for the matches.
- Compass
- The needle of a compass points to magnetic north.
- Map
- If you have a map of the area you're in as well as a compass, you should be able to find out where you are and find your way out.
- Watch
- A watch can be used as a compass too.
- Waterproof ground cloth and cover
- This will help you stay dry, and staying dry is critical for staying warm.
- Flashlight
- Binoculars
- Useful for spotting game, rescue craft, rescue parties, etc.
- Whistle
- A whistle can be used for signaling a rescue party. It is far louder than your voice and can be heard even at great distances. Give three blasts on it to signal for help.
- Fatty emergency foods
- Nuts, peanut butter, chocolate, etc., are high in fat. Fatty foods are packed with calories, and if it gets cold, your body can convert calories into heat.
- Food gathering gear
- Signaling items
- Rope
- Many uses, especially in building a shelter, or climbing.
- Emergency blanket
- Emergency blankets (sometimes called space blankets) are very lightweight, foil-like sheets that reflect up to 90% of a persons body heat back towards the person. Cover yourself with it at night.
- Aluminum foil
- Can be used for cooking, or even shaped into a crude cup for boiling water.
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Adequate sleep, proper diet, personal hygiene, and proper exercise are all important for keeping the mind and body in tip-top shape. When you are in a wilderness situation, it is important to be in good condition, because if you need emergency medical assistance, it will not be easy to get. Keeping your mind sharp will help you make good judgment calls, and that, in turn, will help prevent you from a foolish accident. Keeping your body in shape will also help you avoid sprains, falls, and other accidents.
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For tips and instruction see First Aid, Standard.
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In order to come close to an animal, trackers must remain undetected not only by the animal, but also by other animals that may alert it. Moving as quietly as possible, trackers will avoid stepping on dry leaves and twigs, and take great care when moving through dry grass.
If the trackers are in close proximity to the animal, it is important that they remain downwind of it, that is, in a position where the wind is blowing away from the animal in the direction of the tracker. They must never be in a position where their scent could be carried in the wind towards the animal and thereby alert it. It is also important that the animal does not have the opportunity to cross their tracks, since the lingering human scent will alert it. Most animals prefer to keep the wind in their faces when traveling so that they can scent danger ahead of them. Trackers will therefore usually be downwind from them as they approach the animals from behind. The wind direction may, however, have changed. If the wind direction is unfavorable, the trackers may have to leave the spoor (tracks and other indications of an animal's presence) to search for their quarry from the downwind side.
As the trackers get closer to the animal, they must make sure that they see it before it sees them. Some trackers maintain that an animal keeps looking back down its own trail, always on the alert for danger coming from behind. When the spoor is very fresh, trackers may have to leave the spoor so that the animal does not see them first. Animals usually rest facing downwind, so that they can see danger approaching from the downwind side, while they can smell danger coming from behind them. An animal may also double back on its spoor and circle downwind before settling down to rest. A predator following its trail will move past the resting animal on the upwind side before realizing that the animal had doubled back, and the resting animal will smell the predator in time to make its escape.
When stalking an animal, trackers use the cover of bushes, going down on their hands and knees where necessary. In long grass they go down on their stomachs pulling themselves forward with their elbows. The most important thing is not to attract attention by sudden movements. Trackers should take their time, moving slowly when the animal is not looking, and keeping still when the animal is looking in their direction. When stalking an animal, trackers must also be careful not to disturb other animals. A disturbed animal will give its alarm signal, thereby alerting all animals in the vicinity, including the animal being tracked down.
Text from The Art of Tracking: The Origin of Science, by Louis Liebenberg, with permission from the author. Taken from Wikipedia:Tracking (hunting)
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In a survival situation, the most important thing for a stranded person to do is find or build a shelter. This is more important than water, fire, or food. The rule of threes tells us that a person can survive for three hours without shelter, three days without water, and three weeks without food. In most wilderness fatalities, the victims die from exposure to the elements. They do not die of thirst, nor do they die of starvation. Unless rescue is expected to take more than three days, the victims need not consider water or food - only shelter. They key to being found and rescued is to stay put, and keep warm.
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In deep snow, you can dig a snow cave and use that for shelter. Try to make a sleeping platform higher than the floor, as this will keep you warmer. Place something on top of the platform so that you do not sleep directly on the snow. Leaves, pine needles, or if you have one, a sleeping pad will all work well for this. Block the opening with a backpack.
If the snow is not deep enough, you can build a quinzhee, which is similar to an igloo, but less time-consuming to build. Start by piling any gear you can do without for a few hours in a heap, and then start shoveling snow on top of it. It may take a while to dig the gear out again, so be careful about what you bury. The mound of snow needs to be at least 2.5 meters wide, and 2 meters high. Once the snow is in place, let is sinter for an hour or two. Cook your supper, or go on a hike. Sintering is the process of the snow particles binding to one another. Once enough time has elapsed, gather some sticks and break them into 30 cm lengths. Insert the sticks fully into the snow dome. These will serve as wall thickness indicators when you begin hollowing out the inside.
Begin digging a door, and tunnel in until you reach the pile of gear in the center. Then extract the gear. Having the gear inside is not strictly necessary, but it reduces the amount of digging you have to do. Shed a few layers when you dig, because this will cause you to work up a tremendous sweat. As soon as the quinzhee is finished, you should change into some dry clothing (otherwise, you may be calling an emergency rescue crew to deal with a severe case of hypothermia). Hollow out the inside, stopping as soon as you hit the sticks. Smooth the walls as you go. This is important, because if the walls are smooth, as the snow inside melts, it will run down the walls. If the snowmelt finds a point, it will form a drip. There is nothing adventurous about having a drip of ice cold water landing on your neck at 3:00 am.
Finally, cut three or four vent holes in the ceiling. This will allow stale air to escape. The vent holes need only be 5 cm in diameter, but they must be made, or you will be re-breathing the C02 you exhaled previously. If you plan to light a candle inside, the vents are even more important, as they will allow carbon monoxide to escape.
As with the snow cave, make a smooth sleeping platform. The coldest air in the quinzhee will find the lowest point inside, and that is not where you will want to sleep. Again, block the entry with a backpack.
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A shelter does not have to be tall enough to stand up inside, nor does it even need to be tall enough to sit up inside. It will, however need to be tall enough for you to lie inside. 40 cm should be plenty. Start by gathering stones, and build two walls as high as you want the shelter to be. Unless you are a skilled stone layer, the walls should be at least as wide as they are tall. The two walls should be parallel to one another, a little longer than you are, and about twice as wide as your shoulders and hips. When the walls are finished, throw a tarp over them. The tarp should cover the fine walls you just built and lie on the ground on either side. Pile more rocks on the part of the tarp that is lying on the ground. If you can find a stick a little taller than the wall, use it to hold one end of the tarp (near an open end) higher than the rest of the structure. This will create a slope so that water will run off rather an collect on the tarp. (If enough collects on the tarp, your roof will most certainly collapse.)
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The main function of a shelter in a swamp or marsh is to get you off the ground. To do this, you will need to build a platform. This can be constructed by finding two trees at least 20 cm in diameter and about 2.5 meters apart. Then using square lashing, attach two long poles to either side of the trees, high enough to keep you out of the muck. Use continuous lashings to lash several shorter poles across the support poles to make the platform surface. The short poles should all be as close to the same diameter as possible, or if that's impossible, arranged from smallest to largest. Be diligent when making the lashings, checking and double checking the tightness of the ropes. The lashings must be sufficient to hold your weight.
As a more comfortable alternative to using continuous lashing to attach cross bars, you can instead use a tarp as a platform. It is constructed the same way you would build an improvised litter (stretcher) as described in the Basic Rescue honor. If you have a tarp, you will also probably have enough to stretch it over the platform as well creating walls and a roof to keep the weather at bay.
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It is somewhat odd that forests and tundra are grouped together in this requirement. A forest is by definition, an abundance of trees, while a tundra is an area where the tree growth is hindered by low temperatures and short growing seasons. They are geographical opposites.
In a forested area, build a lean-to. This is done by finding two trees about 2 meters apart, and lashing a horizontal pole to them, about 1.3 meters from the ground. Then find more poles, and lay one end of each on the horizontal pole, and the other end on the ground. This will take several poles, as they should be lain side-by-side all the way across. Finally, cover the poles with a layer of debris - leaf litter, twigs, moss - whatever you can find.
In tundra, use the techniques for building a shelter in the snow, or if there is no snow, use the techniques for building a shelter in a rocky area.
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References