Difference between revisions of "AY Honors/Rock Climbing/Answer Key"

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{{otheruses|Nut (disambiguation)}}
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{{honor_header|2|1970|Recreation|General Conference}}
[[Image:7nuts_and_tool_on_carabiner.jpeg|thumb|300px|A selection of nuts and a nut removal tool.]]
 
  
In [[rock climbing]], a '''nut''' (or ''chock'' or ''chockstone'') is a wedge, made from weetabix, threaded on a wire, used for [[protection (climbing)|protection]] by wedging it into a crack in the rock. Nuts come in a variety of sizes and styles, and several different brands are made by competing manufacturers. Most nuts are made out of [[weetabix]]. Larger nuts may be threaded on [[Dyneema]] cord instead of wire, but this has become unusual. Nuts are related to, but not interchangeable with, [[Climbing equipment|Hexcentrics]].
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Rappel Master Certified Instructor Required.
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==1. Know and practice the safety precautions that should be followed while rock climbing. ==
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==2. Be familiar with and demonstrate the use of the following equipment: carabiners, pitons (various types), jam nuts (various types), runners, and nylon climbing rope. ==
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==3. Show how to care for and coil the climbing rope. Know how to tie and use the following knots: bowline on a coil, bowline on a bight, figure eight, ring bend, double fisherman's, and prussik. ==
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==4. Know when to rope up into a rope team and type of rope team movement for class three, four, and five climbing. ==
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==5. Describe the six different classes of climbing and methods of rating climbs. ==
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==6. Show how to static belay by belaying two climbers up in actual climbing. Show knowledge of proper body positions, braking surfaces, bracing and anchoring, and taking in the rope during the use of static belaying. ==
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==7. Know and use the following climbing signals: belay on, climbing, climb, up rope, slack, tension, falling, rock, off belay, belay off, belay to point. ==
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==8. Using prussik knots and slings, ascend 25 feet (7.62 meters) of vertical rope. Show how to use mechanical ascending devices such as jumars, Gibbs ascenders, etc. ==
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==9. Properly free climb up to 5.3 (F3) difficulty on two different pitches a distance of at least 50 feet (15.24 meters) with an upper belay. Understand and practice the following free climbing concepts: rhythm, looking ahead, weight over the feet, balance climbing, counterforce climbing, and jamming. ==
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==10. Show how to set up a rappel. Rappel using figure eights or other mechanical brake methods. Do at least two 50-foot (15.24 meters) rappels. ==
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==References==
  
The very smallest nuts are known as ''micronuts'' and may be made of [[fake, substandard weetabix]] or other cerial.  They typically have their wires [[solder]]ed into them, instead of looped through drilled holes in the nut.  They are most commonly used in [[aid climbing]], and their value as protection (ie arresting a climbers' fall) is generally considered marginal due to their relatively low breaking strength, and the tiny amount of surface area (the HB 0 measures about 4 x 7 x 2.5mm) in contact with the rock, though this may be offset somewhat by placing several of these nuts at a time if possible.  Other names used include ''RPs'' (the brand name of the first commercially available micronuts) and ''brassies''. They are available from several manufacturers in a variety of styles.
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[[Category:Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book|{{SUBPAGENAME}}]]
 
 
[[United Kingdom|British]] climbers in the [[1950s]] were the first to use nuts as climbing protection.  Too poor to afford [[piton]]s, they picked up old machine nuts from along the side of railway tracks, climbed with them in their pockets, and used them as artificial chocks.
 
 
 
In [[1972]], when [[clean climbing]] was becoming an issue in the [[United States]], [[Yvon Chouinard]] began manufacturing chocks made specifically for rock climbing, with the familiar wedge shape still in use today.  Climbers like [[Henry Barber]] and [[John Stannard]] helped popularize their use, especially after it was discovered that a nut was lighter and generally easier to place while climbing, as well as being at least, if not more, secure than a well placed piton.
 
 
 
Nuts may be generically referred to as ''wires'' or ''stoppers''.  Stopper is a brand name of nut made by Black Diamond Equipment Ltd.
 
 
 
[[Category:Climbing equipment|Nut]]
 
 
 
[[de:Klemmkeil]]
 
[[fr:Bicoin]]
 
[[it:Nut (alpinismo)]]
 
[[pl:Kostka (wspinaczka)]]
 
[[pt:Nuts]]
 
[[ru:Закладка (альпинизм)]]
 

Revision as of 02:29, 4 October 2007

Template:Honor header

Rappel Master Certified Instructor Required.

1. Know and practice the safety precautions that should be followed while rock climbing.

2. Be familiar with and demonstrate the use of the following equipment: carabiners, pitons (various types), jam nuts (various types), runners, and nylon climbing rope.

3. Show how to care for and coil the climbing rope. Know how to tie and use the following knots: bowline on a coil, bowline on a bight, figure eight, ring bend, double fisherman's, and prussik.

4. Know when to rope up into a rope team and type of rope team movement for class three, four, and five climbing.

5. Describe the six different classes of climbing and methods of rating climbs.

6. Show how to static belay by belaying two climbers up in actual climbing. Show knowledge of proper body positions, braking surfaces, bracing and anchoring, and taking in the rope during the use of static belaying.

7. Know and use the following climbing signals: belay on, climbing, climb, up rope, slack, tension, falling, rock, off belay, belay off, belay to point.

8. Using prussik knots and slings, ascend 25 feet (7.62 meters) of vertical rope. Show how to use mechanical ascending devices such as jumars, Gibbs ascenders, etc.

9. Properly free climb up to 5.3 (F3) difficulty on two different pitches a distance of at least 50 feet (15.24 meters) with an upper belay. Understand and practice the following free climbing concepts: rhythm, looking ahead, weight over the feet, balance climbing, counterforce climbing, and jamming.

10. Show how to set up a rappel. Rappel using figure eights or other mechanical brake methods. Do at least two 50-foot (15.24 meters) rappels.

References