Difference between revisions of "AY Honors/Currency (Template)/Answer Key"

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{{honor_header|2|1945|Arts and Crafts<br>General Conference<br>2001 Edition}}
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{{HonorSubpage}}
==1. Relate briefly the story of barter, showing three reasons why money came into being and naming at least ten strange forms of money used in place of coins or currency. ==
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<section begin="Body" />
==2. Relate briefly the history of coinage and paper currency in your country, making sure to mention the dates of the establishment of any mints or engraving plants. Also discover some change in the metal composition of a coin, giving any interesting highlights concerning such a change. ==
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==3. Explain how money is distributed in your country. ==
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==4. Define the following terms: ==
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<!-- 1. Relate briefly the story of barter, showing three reasons why money came into being and naming at least ten strange forms of money used in place of coins or currency.  -->
;a. Alloy: An alloy is a combination of two or more elements, at least one of which is a metal, and where the resulting material has metallic properties. The resulting metallic substance usually has different properties (sometimes significantly different) from those of its componentsNearly all coins are made of alloys.
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'''Barter:''' as a dictionary puts it, ''barter'' is the exchange of something you own for something else that someone else owned. For example, if I raised chickens, and you grew apples, and I wanted some apples and you wanted a chicken, we would come to an agreement to exchange my chicken(s) for your apple(s).
;b. Altered Date:
 
;c. Buffed Coins: A buffed coin is one that's been polished to make it look like an uncirculated or proof coin.  Buffing a coin wears down its original surface, reducing its value.
 
;d. Cast Coins: Coins which are made by pouring a molten alloy into a mold.
 
;e. Clad Coinage: Coins made of layers, like a metal sandwich.
 
;f. Commemorative: Commemorative coins are legally issued coins with a design intended to commemorate or draw attention to some event or person. They are so called to distinguish them from regular issue coinage.
 
;g. Die: An engraved tool used for stamping a design onto a coin.
 
;h. Field: The field is the background—the part of the coin that shows no picture or words.
 
;i. Inscription: An inscription is any letter, word, or phrase pressed into the surface of a coin.
 
;j. Lettered Edge: A coins having letters written on its edge.
 
;k. Mint Mark: The mint mark is a small letter that tells which mint branch struck the coin.
 
;l. Obverse: The front side of currency or a coin (often called "heads" on a coin).
 
;m. Planchet: A blank disc of metal from which a coin is made.
 
;n. Proof: Proof coins use a special process that gives them a shiny, mirror-like background and a "frosted" relief.  Proof sets are made every year for all of our circulating coins.  Like uncirculated coins, proof coins are not meant to be spent.
 
;o. Reeded Edge: The reeded edges still found on many coins (always those that were once made of gold or silver, even if not so now) were originally designed to show that none of the valuable metal had been shaved off the coin.  These show up as ridges along the edge of the coin.
 
;p. Reverse:  The back side of currency or a coin (often called "tails" on a coin).
 
;q. Series: A set of coins of the same denomination but with different designs introduced on a regular basis.  The series will have a unifying theme.
 
;r. Type: A coin design that does not change from year to year (except for the date mark).
 
;s. Whizzed Coins: A whizzed coin has been wire brushed or burnished, often on a wheel, for the same reason.  Whizzing a coin wears down its original surface, reducing its value.
 
;t. Wire Edge: When a coin is made, the blank is placed inside a ''collar'' and the coin is struck with a die.  Sometimes a very thin piece of metal from the blank will flow out between the collar and the die.  This is called the ''wire edge''.
 
  
==5. Describe the obverse and reverse for paper money of the six lowest denominations currently in use in your country. ==
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<!--T:2-->
<! fill in these templates as appropriate for your country>
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After a while, I had enough of apples, and wanted something else. My other neighbor was vegetarian, and grew corn, but he did not want chickens. I found out that he also liked apples, so I ''bartered'' my chickens for your apples, and then traded the apples I got for my neighbor's corn. In a clumsy way, the apples were a '''[[W:Medium_of_exchange|medium of exchange]]''', because they allowed me to trade for what I wanted. Unfortunately, you did not always want chickens, and apples were not always in season, so there were times in the year that I could not trade.
 +
 
 +
<!--T:3-->
 +
Simply put, a ''medium of exchange'' is a substitute used in trade to avoid the inconvenience of the barter system. This allowed the value of your apples, the corn, and my chickens to be valued differently. For example, I did not believe that I should only get one apple for one chicken. The chicken is bigger than an apple. Perhaps the first ''medium of exchange'' were stones. I would trade my chicken for four stones, and you would trade your apples for one stone, and the corn would be traded for two stones.
 +
 
 +
<!--T:4-->
 +
Very soon, we decided stones would not be a good ''medium of exchange'', because:
 +
# it was not very portable
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# it could not be easily divided
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# it was heavier than it was worth
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# sometimes we could not recognize it
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# and the neighbor's kid found a rockpile on the other side of the stream
 +
 
 +
<!--T:5-->
 +
Fast forward a few years, and '''[[W:Currency|currency]]''' has now been developed. ''Currency'' is a unit of exchange, which allows goods and services to be exchanged. It is one form of money (where money is anything that serves as a medium of exchange, a store of value, and a standard of value).
 +
 
 +
<!--T:6-->
 +
'''Unique forms of money'''
 +
 
 +
<!--T:7-->
 +
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_money
 +
 
 +
<!--T:8-->
 +
<gallery>
 +
File:Chinese shell money 16th 8th century BCE.jpg|Shells
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File:RealSalt.jpeg|Salt
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File:Morocco, Spices.JPG|Spices
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File:Dried Peppercorns.jpg|Pepper
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File:DunhillEarlyMorningPipeMurrays.jpg|Tobacco
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File:Erythroxylum coca.jpg|Coca paste
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File:Yap Stone Money.jpg|Stone money
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 +
<!--T:9-->
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File:Chevronbeads.jpg|Trade beads
 +
</gallery>
 +
 
 +
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{{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=2}}
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<!-- 2. Relate briefly the history of coinage and paper currency in your country, making sure to mention the dates of the establishment of any mints or engraving plants. Also discover some change in the metal composition of a coin, giving any interesting highlights concerning such a change.  -->
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 +
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<!-- 3. Explain how money is distributed in your country.  -->
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 +
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<!-- 4. Define the following terms:  -->
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An alloy is a combination of two or more elements, at least one of which is a metal, and where the resulting material has metallic properties. The resulting metallic substance usually has different properties (sometimes significantly different) from those of its components. Nearly all coins are made of alloys.
 +
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A coin that has had its date altered in an attempt to deceive someone into thinking it is more valuable than it really is.
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A buffed coin is one that's been polished to make it look like an uncirculated or proof coin. Buffing a coin wears down its original surface, reducing its value.
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Coins which are made by pouring a molten alloy into a mold.
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Coins made of layers, like a metal sandwich.
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 +
Commemorative coins are legally issued coins with a design intended to commemorate or draw attention to some event or person. They are so called to distinguish them from regular issue coinage.
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An engraved tool used for stamping a design onto a coin.
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The field is the background—the part of the coin that shows no picture or words.
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An inscription is any letter, word, or phrase pressed into the surface of a coin.
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A coin having letters written on its edge.
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The mint mark is a small letter that tells which mint branch struck the coin.
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The front side of currency or a coin (often called "heads" on a coin).
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A blank disc of metal from which a coin is made.
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Proof coins use a special process that gives them a shiny, mirror-like background and a "frosted" relief. Proof sets are made every year for all of our circulating coins. Like uncirculated coins, proof coins are not meant to be spent.
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{{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=4o}}
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The reeded edges still found on many coins (always those that were once made of gold or silver, even if not so now) were originally designed to show that none of the valuable metal had been shaved off the coin. These show up as ridges along the edge of the coin.
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The back side of currency or a coin (often called "tails" on a coin).
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A particular design or motif used over a period of time. This can used for a single denomination, or in some cases, used for several denominations.
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A representative coin, usually a common date, from a particular issue of a specific design, size, or metallic content of U.S.coinage. For example: the "Mercury Head" dime is a "type" coin, as is the "Lincoln" penny.
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A whizzed coin has been wire brushed or burnished, often on a wheel, for the same reason. Whizzing a coin wears down its original surface, reducing its value.
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When a coin is made, the blank is placed inside a collar and the coin is struck with a die. Sometimes a very thin piece of metal from the blank will flow out between the collar and the die. This is called the wire edge.
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<!-- 5. Describe the obverse and reverse for paper money of the six lowest denominations currently in use in your country. -->
 +
 
 +
<!- Use this template to display paper money for your country.
 
{{Paper money
 
{{Paper money
| name =  
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| name = Two Dollar Bill
| obverse =  
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| obverse = US $2 obverse.jpg
| reverse =  
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| reverse = US $2 reverse.jpg
| obverse_description =  
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| obverse_description = Thomas Jefferson, 3rd U.S. President and primary author of the Declaration of Independence.
| reverse_description =  
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| reverse_description = the painting The Declaration of Independence by John Trumbull
 
}}
 
}}
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-->
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<!-- 6. Know how coins are graded in quality by collectors.  -->
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 +
Grading coins is an art that requires some skill. Anyone with some practice can get a fairly good idea as to the neighborhood of the grade of a coin. It's important to know the grade of a coin because, in general, the higher the grade of a coin, the higher its value.
 +
 +
<!--T:36-->
 +
Coins are usually graded on a 70 point scale that was devised by Dr. William Shelby. 0 means that you can probably tell that it was once a coin, while 70 means that it is perfect. Some people, such as unscrupulous coin sellers, may overgrade coins so that they can sell them for more money than they are actually worth.
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 +
<!--T:37-->
 +
If you don't know how to grade coins, you should not buy coins without help. If you do not know how to grade coins for yourself, you will eventually learn, but the process could be expensive. Selling coins does not present as much of a problem. Just take the coins you want to sell to several different dealers to get their opinions as to the grade. Always ask for the grade opinion before asking for a price, as it can help in negotiating a fair price.
 +
 +
<!--T:38-->
 +
If you are interested in learning to grade coins yourself, you may want to start with the book titled "Official A.N.A. Grading Standards for United States Coins" published by the ANA.
 +
 +
<!--T:39-->
 +
'''Grade and Description'''
 +
 +
<!--T:40-->
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'''Cull'''  (Mutilated coin)  These coins are not just worn out, but may be bent, broken, stuck together, or incomplete.
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 +
<!--T:41-->
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'''PO-1'''  (Poor)  Identifiable date and type
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 +
<!--T:42-->
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'''FR-2'''  (Fair)  Mostly worn, though some detail is visible
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 +
<!--T:43-->
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'''AG-3'''  (About Good)  Worn rims but most lettering is readable though worn
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 +
<!--T:44-->
 +
'''G-4'''    (Good)  Slightly worn rims, flat detail, peripheral lettering nearly full 
 +
 +
<!--T:45-->
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'''G-6'''    (Good)  Rims complete with flat detail, peripheral lettering full
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 +
'''VG-8'''  (Very Good)  Design worn with slight detail
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 +
<!--T:46-->
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'''VG-10'''  (Very Good)  Design worn with slight detail, slightly clearer
 +
 
 +
'''F-12'''  (Fine)  Some deeply recessed areas with detail, all lettering sharp
 +
 +
'''F-15'''  (Fine)  Slightly more detail in the recessed areas, all lettering sharp
 +
 +
<!--T:47-->
 +
'''VF-20'''  (Very Fine)  Some definition of detail, all lettering full and sharp
 +
 
 +
'''VF-25'''  (Very Fine)  Slightly more definition in the detail and lettering
 +
 +
'''VF-30'''  (Very Finde)  Almost complete detail with flat areas
 +
 +
<!--T:48-->
 +
'''VF-35'''  (Very Fine)  Detail is complete but worn with high points flat 
 +
 +
<!--T:49-->
 +
'''EF-40'''  (Extremely Fine)  Detail is complete with most high points slightly flat
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 +
<!--T:50-->
 +
'''EF-45'''  (Extremely Fine)  Detail is complete with some high points flat 
 +
 +
<!--T:51-->
 +
'''AU-50'''  (About Uncirculated)  Full detail with friction over most of the surface, slight flatness on high points
 +
 +
'''AU-53'''  (About Uncirculated)  Full detail with friction over 1/2 or more of surface, very slight flatness on high points
 +
 +
<!--T:52-->
 +
'''AU-55'''  (About Uncirculated)  Full detail with friction on less than 1/2 surface, mainly on high points 
 +
 +
<!--T:53-->
 +
'''AU-58'''  (About Uncirculated)  Full detail with only slight friction on the high points
 +
 +
'''MS/PR-60''' (Mint State/Proof)  No wear. May have many heavy marks/hairlines, strike may not be full
 +
 +
'''MS/PR-61''' (Mint State/Proof)  No wear. Multiple heavy marks/hairlines, strike may not be full
 +
 +
'''MS/PR-62''' (Mint State/Proof)  No wear. Slightly less marks/hairlines, strike may not be full
 +
 +
<!--T:54-->
 +
'''MS/PR-63''' (Mint State/Proof)  Moderate number/size marks/hairlines, strike may not be full 
 +
 +
<!--T:55-->
 +
'''MS/PR-64''' (Mint State/Proof)  Few marks/hairlines or a couple of severe ones, strike should be average or above
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 +
<!--T:56-->
 +
'''MS/PR-65''' (Mint State/Proof)  Minor marks/hairlines though none in focal areas, above average strike
 +
 +
<!--T:57-->
 +
'''MS/PR-66''' (Mint State/Proof)  Few minor marks/hairlines not in focal areas, good strike 
 +
 +
<!--T:58-->
 +
'''MS/PR-67''' (Mint State/Proof)  Virtually as struck with minor imperfections, very well struck 
 +
 +
<!--T:59-->
 +
'''MS/PR-68''' (Mint State/Proof)  Virtually as struck with slight imperfections, slightest weakness of strike allowed
 +
 +
<!--T:60-->
 +
'''MS/PR-69''' (Mint State/Proof)  Virtually as struck with minuscule imperfections, near full strike necessary
 +
 +
'''MS/PR-70''' (Mint State/Proof)  As struck, with full strike
 +
 +
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<!-- 7. Collect and mount a type set of coins from your country of any date currently being minted or in circulation. Proof, commemorative, rare, silver, or expensive coins are not needed. -->
 +
 +
<!--T:62-->
 +
:'''Remember:''' A ''type set'' is a coin design that does not change from year to year (except for the date and mint marks).
 +
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<noinclude><translate></noinclude>
  
{{Paper money
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<noinclude></translate></noinclude>
| name =  
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{{CloseReq}} <!-- 7b -->
| obverse =  
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{{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=7c}} <!--T:64-->
| reverse =  
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<noinclude><translate></noinclude>
| obverse_description =  
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<noinclude></translate></noinclude>
| reverse_description =  
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{{CloseReq}} <!-- 7c -->
}}
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<!-- 8. Do two of the following:  -->
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{{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=8a}}
 +
<noinclude><translate></noinclude>
  
{{Paper money
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<noinclude></translate></noinclude>
| name =  
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{{CloseReq}} <!-- 8a -->
| obverse =
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{{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=8b}}  
| reverse =
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<noinclude><translate></noinclude>
| obverse_description =  
 
| reverse_description =
 
}}
 
  
{{Paper money
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<noinclude></translate></noinclude>
| name =  
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{{CloseReq}} <!-- 8b -->
| obverse =  
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{{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=8c}}
| reverse =  
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<noinclude><translate></noinclude>
| obverse_description =
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A type set is generally defined as a collection that contains one, and only one, of each design for a series or complete coinage series.
| reverse_description =  
+
<noinclude></translate></noinclude>
}}
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{{CloseReq}} <!-- 8c -->
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{{ansreq|page={{#titleparts:{{PAGENAME}}|2|1}}|num=8d}} <!--T:80-->
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<noinclude><translate></noinclude>
  
{{Paper money
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<noinclude></translate></noinclude>
| name =
+
{{CloseReq}} <!-- 8d -->
| obverse =  
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{{CloseReq}} <!-- 8 -->
| reverse =  
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<noinclude><translate></noinclude>
| obverse_description =  
+
==References== <!--T:19-->
| reverse_description =  
+
<noinclude></translate></noinclude>
}}
 
  
{{Paper money
+
[[Category:AY Honors/noindex{{GetLangSuffix}}|{{SUBPAGENAME}}]]
| name =
+
[[Category:AY Honors/Secondary{{GetLangSuffix}}]]
| obverse =
 
| reverse =
 
| obverse_description =
 
| reverse_description =
 
}}
 
  
==6. Know how coins are graded in quality by collectors. ==
+
<section end="Body" />
*'''Uncirculated''' (abbreviated "unc").  Such a coin looks as new as the day it was minted—"minty fresh," if you will.  This one shows not even the slightest sign of wear or contact.
 
* '''Extremely Fine''' (EF) or About Uncirculated.  This coin is almost perfect except for slight wear or flaws.
 
* '''Very Fine''' (VF).  It's easy to see that this coin has been used because the highest points are slightly flattened...but the rest of the details are fine and there are no nicks or scratches.
 
* '''Fine''' (F).  A coin in Fine condition is pretty worn and flattened.  But even though there may be minor nicks and blemishes, the details are still clear and its general look is pleasing.
 
* '''Very Good''' (VG).  This coin is quite worn and the rim is flat, although the words are still readable.
 
* '''Good''' (G).  You can make out the main design and lettering on this one, but it's so worn and scratched that it's not very collectible—unless you can't find anything better.
 
* '''Uncurrent'''.  This is not a grading term, but it describes a coin that's so badly worn that it weighs less than it should.  You can tell what it is and it still works in machines, but merchants and banks may not take it. 
 
* '''Mutilated'''.  These coins are not just worn out but are bent, broken, stuck together, or incomplete.
 
  
==7. Collect and mount a type set of coins from your country of any date currently being minted or in circulation. Proof, commemorative, rare, silver, or expensive coins are not needed. In your collection: ==
+
{{CloseHonorPage}}
===a. Possess at least one coin from each mint in the type set. ===
 
===b. Locate and identify the mint mark (if any) on each coin. ===
 
===c. Locate and identify the initials (if any) of each coin's designer(s). ===
 
==8. Do two of the following: ==
 
===a. Make enlarged drawings of both sides of ten different denominations or forms of coins for your country no longer in circulation. ===
 
===b. Collect, identify, and mount 25 different foreign coins. No two coins alike.===
 
===c. Collect and mount a type set of coins from your country minted during the 20th Century. ===
 
===d. Collect and mount a date set of series of coins for your country beginning with your birth year. (Commemorative, gold, proof, expensive, or rare coins need not be included.) ===
 
Note: Facts About United States Money (free), Office of the Secretary of the Treasury,
 
U.S. Treasury Department, Washington, D.C. 20025.
 
Facts about your country's currency may be obtained from the government treasury
 
department.
 
==References==
 
* http://www.usmint.gov/kids/campCoin/collectorsWorkshop/
 
* http://www.pcgs.com/lingo.chtml
 

Latest revision as of 18:31, 4 October 2021

Skill Level

Year

Unknown

Version

28.11.2024

Approval authority

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[[AY Honors/|]]
Skill Level
???


1

Relate briefly the story of barter, showing three reasons why money came into being and naming at least ten strange forms of money used in place of coins or currency.


Barter: as a dictionary puts it, barter is the exchange of something you own for something else that someone else owned. For example, if I raised chickens, and you grew apples, and I wanted some apples and you wanted a chicken, we would come to an agreement to exchange my chicken(s) for your apple(s).

After a while, I had enough of apples, and wanted something else. My other neighbor was vegetarian, and grew corn, but he did not want chickens. I found out that he also liked apples, so I bartered my chickens for your apples, and then traded the apples I got for my neighbor's corn. In a clumsy way, the apples were a medium of exchange, because they allowed me to trade for what I wanted. Unfortunately, you did not always want chickens, and apples were not always in season, so there were times in the year that I could not trade.

Simply put, a medium of exchange is a substitute used in trade to avoid the inconvenience of the barter system. This allowed the value of your apples, the corn, and my chickens to be valued differently. For example, I did not believe that I should only get one apple for one chicken. The chicken is bigger than an apple. Perhaps the first medium of exchange were stones. I would trade my chicken for four stones, and you would trade your apples for one stone, and the corn would be traded for two stones.

Very soon, we decided stones would not be a good medium of exchange, because:

  1. it was not very portable
  2. it could not be easily divided
  3. it was heavier than it was worth
  4. sometimes we could not recognize it
  5. and the neighbor's kid found a rockpile on the other side of the stream

Fast forward a few years, and currency has now been developed. Currency is a unit of exchange, which allows goods and services to be exchanged. It is one form of money (where money is anything that serves as a medium of exchange, a store of value, and a standard of value).

Unique forms of money

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_money


2

Relate briefly the history of coinage and paper currency in your country, making sure to mention the dates of the establishment of any mints or engraving plants. Also discover some change in the metal composition of a coin, giving any interesting highlights concerning such a change.



3

Explain how money is distributed in your country.



4

Define the following terms:


4a

Alloy


An alloy is a combination of two or more elements, at least one of which is a metal, and where the resulting material has metallic properties. The resulting metallic substance usually has different properties (sometimes significantly different) from those of its components. Nearly all coins are made of alloys.


4b

Altered Date


A coin that has had its date altered in an attempt to deceive someone into thinking it is more valuable than it really is.


4c

Buffed Coins


A buffed coin is one that's been polished to make it look like an uncirculated or proof coin. Buffing a coin wears down its original surface, reducing its value.


4d

Cast Coins


Coins which are made by pouring a molten alloy into a mold.


4e

Clad Coinage


Coins made of layers, like a metal sandwich.


4f

Commemorative


Commemorative coins are legally issued coins with a design intended to commemorate or draw attention to some event or person. They are so called to distinguish them from regular issue coinage.


4g

Die


An engraved tool used for stamping a design onto a coin.


4h

Field


The field is the background—the part of the coin that shows no picture or words.


4i

Inscription


An inscription is any letter, word, or phrase pressed into the surface of a coin.


4j

Lettered Edge


A coin having letters written on its edge.


4k

Mint Mark


The mint mark is a small letter that tells which mint branch struck the coin.


4l

Obverse


The front side of currency or a coin (often called "heads" on a coin).


4m

Planchet


A blank disc of metal from which a coin is made.


4n

Proof


Proof coins use a special process that gives them a shiny, mirror-like background and a "frosted" relief. Proof sets are made every year for all of our circulating coins. Like uncirculated coins, proof coins are not meant to be spent.


4o

Reeded Edge


The reeded edges still found on many coins (always those that were once made of gold or silver, even if not so now) were originally designed to show that none of the valuable metal had been shaved off the coin. These show up as ridges along the edge of the coin.


4p

Reverse


The back side of currency or a coin (often called "tails" on a coin).


4q

Series


A particular design or motif used over a period of time. This can used for a single denomination, or in some cases, used for several denominations.


4r

Type


A representative coin, usually a common date, from a particular issue of a specific design, size, or metallic content of U.S.coinage. For example: the "Mercury Head" dime is a "type" coin, as is the "Lincoln" penny.


4s

Whizzed Coins


A whizzed coin has been wire brushed or burnished, often on a wheel, for the same reason. Whizzing a coin wears down its original surface, reducing its value.


4t

Wire Edge


When a coin is made, the blank is placed inside a collar and the coin is struck with a die. Sometimes a very thin piece of metal from the blank will flow out between the collar and the die. This is called the wire edge.



5

Describe the obverse and reverse for paper money of the six lowest denominations currently in use in your country.


<!- Use this template to display paper money for your country.

Two Dollar Bill
Obverse side, featuring Thomas Jefferson, 3rd U.S. President and primary author of the Declaration of Independence.
Reverse side, featuring the painting The Declaration of Independence by John Trumbull

-->


6

Know how coins are graded in quality by collectors.


Grading coins is an art that requires some skill. Anyone with some practice can get a fairly good idea as to the neighborhood of the grade of a coin. It's important to know the grade of a coin because, in general, the higher the grade of a coin, the higher its value.

Coins are usually graded on a 70 point scale that was devised by Dr. William Shelby. 0 means that you can probably tell that it was once a coin, while 70 means that it is perfect. Some people, such as unscrupulous coin sellers, may overgrade coins so that they can sell them for more money than they are actually worth.

If you don't know how to grade coins, you should not buy coins without help. If you do not know how to grade coins for yourself, you will eventually learn, but the process could be expensive. Selling coins does not present as much of a problem. Just take the coins you want to sell to several different dealers to get their opinions as to the grade. Always ask for the grade opinion before asking for a price, as it can help in negotiating a fair price.

If you are interested in learning to grade coins yourself, you may want to start with the book titled "Official A.N.A. Grading Standards for United States Coins" published by the ANA.

Grade and Description

Cull (Mutilated coin) These coins are not just worn out, but may be bent, broken, stuck together, or incomplete.

PO-1 (Poor) Identifiable date and type

FR-2 (Fair) Mostly worn, though some detail is visible

AG-3 (About Good) Worn rims but most lettering is readable though worn

G-4 (Good) Slightly worn rims, flat detail, peripheral lettering nearly full

G-6 (Good) Rims complete with flat detail, peripheral lettering full

VG-8 (Very Good) Design worn with slight detail

VG-10 (Very Good) Design worn with slight detail, slightly clearer

F-12 (Fine) Some deeply recessed areas with detail, all lettering sharp

F-15 (Fine) Slightly more detail in the recessed areas, all lettering sharp

VF-20 (Very Fine) Some definition of detail, all lettering full and sharp

VF-25 (Very Fine) Slightly more definition in the detail and lettering

VF-30 (Very Finde) Almost complete detail with flat areas

VF-35 (Very Fine) Detail is complete but worn with high points flat

EF-40 (Extremely Fine) Detail is complete with most high points slightly flat

EF-45 (Extremely Fine) Detail is complete with some high points flat

AU-50 (About Uncirculated) Full detail with friction over most of the surface, slight flatness on high points

AU-53 (About Uncirculated) Full detail with friction over 1/2 or more of surface, very slight flatness on high points

AU-55 (About Uncirculated) Full detail with friction on less than 1/2 surface, mainly on high points

AU-58 (About Uncirculated) Full detail with only slight friction on the high points

MS/PR-60 (Mint State/Proof) No wear. May have many heavy marks/hairlines, strike may not be full

MS/PR-61 (Mint State/Proof) No wear. Multiple heavy marks/hairlines, strike may not be full

MS/PR-62 (Mint State/Proof) No wear. Slightly less marks/hairlines, strike may not be full

MS/PR-63 (Mint State/Proof) Moderate number/size marks/hairlines, strike may not be full

MS/PR-64 (Mint State/Proof) Few marks/hairlines or a couple of severe ones, strike should be average or above

MS/PR-65 (Mint State/Proof) Minor marks/hairlines though none in focal areas, above average strike

MS/PR-66 (Mint State/Proof) Few minor marks/hairlines not in focal areas, good strike

MS/PR-67 (Mint State/Proof) Virtually as struck with minor imperfections, very well struck

MS/PR-68 (Mint State/Proof) Virtually as struck with slight imperfections, slightest weakness of strike allowed

MS/PR-69 (Mint State/Proof) Virtually as struck with minuscule imperfections, near full strike necessary

MS/PR-70 (Mint State/Proof) As struck, with full strike


7

Collect and mount a type set of coins from your country of any date currently being minted or in circulation. Proof, commemorative, rare, silver, or expensive coins are not needed.


Remember: A type set is a coin design that does not change from year to year (except for the date and mint marks).


7a

In your collection: Possess at least one coin from each mint in the type set.



7b

In your collection: Locate and identify the mint mark (if any) on each coin.



7c

In your collection: Locate and identify the initials (if any) of each coin's designer(s).




8

Do two of the following:


8a

Make enlarged drawings of both sides of ten different denominations or forms of coins for your country no longer in circulation.



8b

Collect, identify, and mount 25 different foreign coins. No two coins alike.



8c

Collect and mount a type set of coins from your country minted during the 20th Century.


A type set is generally defined as a collection that contains one, and only one, of each design for a series or complete coinage series.


8d

Collect and mount a date set of series of coins for your country beginning with your birth year. (Commemorative, gold, proof, expensive, or rare coins need not be included.)





References