Especialidades JA/Pionerismo/Respuestas
Pionerismo | ||
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Asociación General
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Destreza: 2 Año de introducción: 1956 |
Requisitos
La especialidad de Pionerismo es un componente de la Maestría Vida Primitiva. |
Conexión Logros para la Investidura: Esta especialidad está relacionada con los requisitos de Logros para la Investidura para GUÍA DE NUEVAS FRONTERAS Vida al Aire Libre que requiere el desarrollo completo de esta especialidad o de 4 otras especialidades, no obtenidas previamente. |
1
1a
1b
1c
1d
1e
1f
1g
1h
2
2a
2b
2c
2d
3
3a
Véase la especialidad de Cestería para más instrucción.
3b
3c
3d
4
5
5a
5b
5c
Nota: Esta técnica, aunque aparece como una opción en los requisitos oficiales, no estaba disponible para los pioneros. Por lo tanto, recomendamos que no se utilice para enseñar esta especialidad. |
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Camping/Fire/Electric spark/es
5d
5e
5f
Nota: Al igual que con la técnica de la «chispa eléctrica», los pioneros desconocían este método de encender fuego. Nuevamente, recomendamos no usar esta opción para cumplir con el requisito. |
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Camping/Fire/Compressed air/es
6
6a
6b
6c
6d
6e
6f
7
7a
7b
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Bowline/es
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Bowline on a bight/es
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Clove hitch/es
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Double fishermans/es
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Figure 8/es
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Prusik/es
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Sheepshank/es
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Square/es
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Taut-line hitch/es
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Two half hitches/es
7c
7d
8
9
10
11
11a
See the Candlemaking honor for instruction. Why not earn it while you're at it?
11b
Note that this is also a major requirement for the Soap Craft - Advanced honor.
See also the on making soap.
11c
11d
This can be done when sitting around the campfire. Get a half pint of heavy cream (45% milk fat) and place it in a sealable container with a wide mouth, such as a Tupperware vessel or glass jar with a tight fitting lid. Place a marble (or similar object) in the container with the cream and seal it up tight. (Optional) Then pass it around the campfire having everyone shake it for a minute or two. After ten to fifteen minutes, the container should have two things in it: butter, and buttermilk. You can pour off the buttermilk (save it for biscuits or pancakes in the morning) and you are left with solid butter. The butter solids can then be "washed" by kneading out the pockets of buttermilk with the back of a large spoon. When most of the remaining buttermilk has been worked out, you may salt it to taste and spread it on fresh baked bread. Delicious!
11e
If you don't happen to have a flock of geese from which to pluck feathers, you can always buy them at a craft supply store. Select a feather that is about 30 cm long. The first step in making a quill pen is to temper the shaft. This can be done by heating a tin can filled with sand in an oven at 175°C for 15 minutes. If camping, you can do this in a campfire as well. Carefully remove the can from the heat and jam the end of the feather into the sand as far as it will go. Let it sit there until the sand cools. This will cause the transparent shaft of the feather to become opaque.
Strip some of the "hair" off the feather so that it will not get in the way of the writer's hand. 5 to 7.5 cm will do fine. Hold the feather in your hand to see how it wants to orient itself. Unlike a modern pen, one portion of the feather's shaft will be the "top". Usually, the feather will curve over the hand as you hold it.
This page has a good description, but we'd need to put it in our own words. http://www.flick.com/~liralen/quills/quills.html
11f
For this you will need an ear of corn, still in the husk, a bit twine, and some cloth. Choose one with as much stem attached as you can, up to the intended height of the doll.
Peel the husk back, trying to tear as little of it apart as you can. Fold the husk over the stem. Once all the husk has been folded back, you can chop the corn cob off with a sharp knife. Discard the silks. Tie a piece of twine around the husk an inch or so below the point from which the cob was cut. Tighten it up as much as you can. This will form the neck line. Tie another piece of twine about the middle to form a waist. Then use the cloth to make a dress for the doll. (A bonnet conceals the unfortunate fact that your doll is bald.) Draw some eyes, a nose, and a mouth on the doll's face using a marker, or for a more authentic look, use a piece of charcoal.
11g
For instruction, see the Quilting honor.
12
Warning: We recommend that extreme caution be exercised with regard to these remedies. Some of them are harmless enough (jewelweed, balsam fir, coltsfoot, and garlic), while others are potentially fatal (boneset, feverfew). All medicines are poisonous if the dosage is exceeded, and the amount of the active ingredient found in wild plants is obviously not labeled. |
- Jewelweed
- The juice from this plant was used as a treatment for poison ivy. However, modern medicine has shown that jewelweed is no more effective than a placebo for treating poison ivy.
- Willow
- The bark from the willow tree contains salicylic acid, an ingredient in aspirin. Chewing on willow shoots, twigs, branches, or bark was used as a pain reliever.
- Balsam fir
- The resin of the balsam fir is used to produce Canada balsam, and was traditionally used as a cold remedy.
- Coltsfoot
- The leaves of the coltsfoot plant were used for making tea or hard candy. Both were used as a cough medicine. Again, modern medicine has shown that this treatment is not efficacious.
- Boneset
- Boneset, although poisonous to humans and grazing livestock, has been used in folk medicine, for instance to excrete excess uric acid which causes gout. It has many more presumed beneficial uses, including treatment of dengue fever, arthritis, certain infectious diseases, migraine, intestinal worms, malaria, and diarrhea. Boneset infusions are also considered an excellent remedy for influenza. Scientific research of these applications is rudimentary at present, however. Caution is advised when using boneset, since it contains toxic compounds that can cause liver damage. Side effects include muscular tremors, weakness, and constipation; overdoses may be deadly.
- Feverfew
- Feverfew has been used for reducing fever, for treating headaches, arthritis and digestive problems.
- Garlic
- Garlic has been used as both food and medicine in many cultures for thousands of years, dating at least as far back as the time that the Egyptian pyramids were built. Garlic is claimed to help prevent heart disease including atherosclerosis, high cholesterol, high blood pressure, and cancer.
13
13a
The greatest problem you will need to overcome when building a raft from logs is that logs are very close to having neutral buoyancy, meaning that they do float, but only barely. To deal with this, you will need a great many number of logs.
Gather about 20 logs that are about 3-4 inches (8-10 cm) in diameter, and 16-20 feet (5-6 meters) long. Dry logs are better because they are lighter, and thus have greater buoyancy. You will build the raft upside-down, and then flip it over into the water. It will be very heavy (weighing literally as much as 20 or so logs), so you will want to build it right at the edge of the river.
Lay two of these logs parallel to one another and spaced such that the rest of the logs can lay on top of them perpendicularly. These are the "base" logs. Then lay all but two of the remaining logs on the base logs (and perpendicular to them) in a pile only three feet (3 meters) wide near one end of the base logs. Lash them together as a bundle onto the base logs. Lash the one of the remaining logs to the other end of the base logs, and lash the last one diagonally to prevent racking.
This video should make all the steps fairly clear:
The important point is that the raft gets its flotation from a bundle of logs rather than from a single layer. A single-layer raft will float until someone gets on it. It will still float even with someone on it, but its top surface will be below the water line, making it very difficult to maneuver.
We recommend that the raft be accompanied by other watercraft, such as canoes or john boats. You should also carefully scout the river before committing the raft to it, ensuring there are no rapids.
Because this trip is not an over-nighter, you will be able to use the canoes to carry people instead of gear. Plan on enough canoe capacity to carry everyone in the party just in case the raft is not able to complete the journey (it happens). Assume that each canoe can carry three or four people.
Make sure everyone wears something they can get wet (such as a swimsuit), as well as sandals, river shoes, or old tennis shoes. Personal Floatation Devices (PFDs, also known as life-jackets) are an absolute must, and should be worn at all times while on the water. Under no circumstances should you allow anyone to board the watercraft (especially the raft) without a PFD.
13b
13c
13d
References
- Categoría: Tiene imagen de insignia
- Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Honors/es
- Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/es
- Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Skill Level 2/es
- Categoría: Libro de respuestas de especialidades JA/Especialidades introducidas en 1956
- Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/General Conference/es
- Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/es
- Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Primary/es
- Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Stage 0/es
- Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Wilderness Master Award/es
- Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/IAConnection/es
- Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book