Difference between revisions of "AY Honors/Snowshoeing/Answer Key"

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{{About|snow footwear|the resort|Snowshoe Mountain|the hare|Snowshoe Hare|other uses|Snowshoe (disambiguation)}}
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|[[Image:Atlas snowshoes.jpg|thumb|175px|A pair of modern snowshoes]]
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|[[Image:Snowshoe2.jpg|175px|thumb|Traditional snowshoe]]
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<!-- 1. Describe the shape and size of three types of snowshoes and when/how they might be used (Aerobic/running, recreation, mountaineering). -->
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A '''Snowshoe''' is [[footwear]] for walking over the [[snow]]. Snowshoes work by distributing the weight of the person over a larger area so that the person's foot does not sink completely into the snow, a quality called "flotation".
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===Aerobic/running=== <!--T:48-->
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An aerobic/running snowshoe is intended for use by runners who would otherwise not be able to train in their sport when there is snow on the ground.
  
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Traditional snowshoes have a hardwood frame with [[rawhide]] lacings. Some modern snowshoes are similar, but most are made of materials such as lightweight metal, plastic, and synthetic fabric. In addition to distributing the weight, snowshoes are generally raised at the toe for maneuverability. They must not accumulate snow, hence the [[latticework]], and require bindings to attach them to the feet.
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They are smaller and lighter than other types of snowshoes and are intended for use on packed snow. Further, the bindings are usually closer to the inside edge of the shoe so that the runner can maintain a more natural stride than with other types of snowshoes. These snowshoes are also likely to have an asymmetric shape.
  
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In the past, snowshoes were essential tools for fur traders, [[Trapping (Animal)|trappers]] and anyone whose life or living depended on the ability to get around in areas of deep and frequent snowfall, and they remain necessary equipment for [[forest ranger]]s and others who must be able to get around areas inaccessible to motorized vehicles when the snow is deep. However, today snowshoes are mainly used for recreation, primarily by [[hiking|hikers]] and [[running|runners]] who like to continue their hobby in wintertime. Snowshoeing is easy to learn, and in appropriate conditions is a relatively safe and inexpensive recreational activity. However, snowshoeing in icy, steep terrain is more dangerous.
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===Recreation=== <!--T:4-->
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Recreation snowshoes are larger than aerobic/running snowshoes, and are meant for use in gentle-to moderate walks of {{units|5 to 8 km|3–5 miles}}. In most cases, recreation snowshoes can be used as all-purpose shoes, and will last the user for many years of even rough use. These snowshoes are most often symmetric and somewhat oval-shaped.
  
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==Development ==
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===Mountaineering=== <!--T:5-->
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===Origins===
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Mountaineering are the largest snowshoes, and are meant for serious hill-climbing, long-distance trips and off-trail use. Like recreational shoes, mountaineering shoes are most often symmetrical and oval shaped, though they will be more of an elongated oval than the recreational counterparts.
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[[Image:Snow Shoe Maker between ca. 1900-1930.jpg|thumb|right|150px|Traditional snowshoe maker, c. 1900-1930.]]
 
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Before humanity built snowshoes, nature provided examples. Several animals, most notably the [[snowshoe hare]], had [[evolution|evolved]] over the years with oversized feet enabling them to move more quickly through deep snow.
 
  
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The origin and age of snowshoes are not precisely known, although historians believe they were invented from 4,000 to 6,000 years ago, probably starting in [[Central Europe]].{{Citation needed|date=March 2008}} [[United Kingdom|British]] [[archaeology|archaeologist]] [[Jacqui Wood]] hypothesized that ne - Iceman was wearing 'earliest snowshoes']</ref> [[Strabo]] wrote that the inhabitants of the [[Caucasus]] used to attach flat surfaces of leather under their feet and that the [[Armenians]] used round wooden surfaces, something akin to blocks, instead. However, the "traditional" webbed snowshoe as we know it today had direct origins to North American indigenous people, e.g., the Huron, Cree, and so forth. [[Samuel de Champlain]] wrote, referencing the Huron and Algonquin First Nations, in his travel memoirs (V.III, pg. 164), "Winter, when there is much snow, they (the Indians) make a kind of snowshoe that are two to three times larger than those in France, that they tie to their feet, and thus go on the snow, without sinking into it, otherwise they would not be able to hunt or go from one location to the other".
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The size of the shoe needed is dictated by two factors: the weight of the person using them, and the condition of the snow on which they will be used. Snowshoes will sink more deeply into light fluffy snow (such as the snow for which Utah is famous) requiring a larger shoe. Wet or packed snow can be traversed with smaller shoes.
  
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Two groups of snowshoe pioneers diverged early on, setting patterns that can still be seen today. One group abandoned the snowshoe as it migrated north to what is now [[Scandinavia]], eventually turning the design into the forerunners of the [[cross-country skiing|Nordic ski]]. The other went northeast, eventually crossing the [[Bering Strait]] into [[North America]].{{Citation needed|date=March 2008}}
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Trekking poles help you balance when snowshoeing, can be used to assist in getting up after a fall, and can spread the workload from your legs to your arms giving you a better workout.
  
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===North American indigenous peoples===
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Here, their descendants developed the most advanced and diverse snowshoes prior to [[European colonization of the Americas|European exploration and colonization]]. Nearly every [[Indigenous peoples of the Americas|Amerindian]] tribe developed its own particular shape of shoe, the simplest and most primitive being those of [[Arctic|the far north]]. The [[Inuit]] have two styles, one being triangular in shape and about {{convert|18|in|cm|abbr=off}} in length, and the other almost circular, both reflecting the need for high flotation in deep, loose and powdery snow. However, contrary to popular perception, the Inuit did not use their snowshoes much since they did most of their foot travel in winter over sea ice or on the [[tundra]], where snow does not pile up deeply.
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Snowshoes do not come with a foot covering. The snowshoer must provide that separately. Hiking boots are a good choice because they are warm, relatively waterproof, and lightweight. Snow boots are not necessary because the snowshoe will keep the boot above the snow (for the most part). The added weight of a snow boot can be exhausting.
  
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Southward the shoe becomes gradually narrower and longer, the largest being the hunting snow-shoe of the [[Cree]], which is nearly {{convert|6|ft|m|abbr=on}} long and turned up at the toe. Even smaller models, developed most notably by the [[Iroquois]], are narrower and shorter, reflecting the need for maneuverability in [[forest]]ed areas where wetter and shallower snow cover during winter made flotation less important.
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Gaiters are garments worn over the shoe and lower pant leg, and used primarily as personal protective equipment. Gaiters strap over the boot and around the person's leg to provide protection from branches and thorns and to prevent snow from entering the top of the boot.
  
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The [[Plains Indians]] wore snowshoes on their wintertime [[American Bison|bison]] hunts before [[horse]]s were introduced. Despite their great diversity in form, snowshoes were, in fact, one of the few cultural elements common to all First Nations tribes that lived where the winters were snowy, in particular, the Northern regions.
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<!-- 3.Demonstrate proper technique of the following while using snowshoes: -->
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Walking skills are easily transferable to straightforward snowshoe travel, but this is not always the case with turning around. While a snowshoer with space to do so can, and usually does, simply walk in a small semicircle, on a steep slope or in close quarters such as a boreal forest this may be impractical or impossible. It is thus necessary in such circumstances to execute a "kick turn" similar to the one employed on skis: lifting one foot high enough to keep the entire snowshoe in the air while keeping the other planted, putting the foot at a 180 degree angle and parallel to the other (or as close as possible for the situation and the snowshoer's physical comfort), then planting it on the snow and quickly repeating the action with the other foot. This is much easier to accomplish with poles.
  
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===Use by Europeans===
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[[Image:Swedishnowshoe.PNG|tumb|200px|left|thumb|16th century depiction of Swedish traveller with horse]]
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Snowshoes were slowly adopted by [[European ethnic groups|European]]s in what became [[Canada]] and the [[United States]], with the [[French people|French]] ''[[Coureur des bois|voyageur]]s'' well in advance of [[British people|British]] [[settler]]s. According to the Encyclopædia Britannica, French Voyageurs were primarily 18th and 19th century French Canadian fur traders who explored the frontier waterways by canoe. Superior French snowshoeing skill almost turned the [[French and Indian War]], a conflict that saw two engagements named the [[Battle on Snowshoes]], to their favor.  
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[[Image:Snowshoe heel lift cropped.jpg|thumb|left|Some modern snowshoes have bars that can be flipped up for ascending steep slopes. The wearer's heel can rest on the bar.]]
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While the cleating and traction improvements to modern snowshoes have greatly enhanced snowshoers' climbing abilities, on very steep slopes it is still beneficial to make "kick steps," kicking the toes of the shoes into the snow to create a kind of snow stairs for the next traveler to use.
  
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But the British were quick learners. The [[Oxford English Dictionary]] reports the term being used by the English as early as 1674. Sixteen years later, after a French-Indian raiding party attacked a British settlement near what is today [[Schenectady, New York]], the British took to their own snowshoes and pursued the attackers for almost {{convert|50|mi|km|abbr=off}}, ultimately recovering both people and goods taken by their attackers.
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Alternatively, snowshoers can use two techniques borrowed from skis: the herringbone (walking uphill with the shoes spread outward at an angle to increase their support) and the sidestep.
  
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The "teardrop" snowshoes worn by lumberjacks are about {{convert|40|in|m|abbr=off}} long and broad in proportion, while the tracker's shoe is over {{convert|5|ft|m}} long and very narrow. This form, the stereotypical snowshoe, resembles a [[tennis]] [[racquet]], and indeed the [[French language|French]] term is ''raquette de neige''.
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For those snowshoers who use poles, it can be easier to rely on the poles to 'pull' oneself with regular stride, up the slope.
  
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This form was copied by the [[Canada|Canadian]] snowshoe clubs of the late 18th century. Originally founded for military training purposes, they became the earliest recreational users of snowshoes.  
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Once a trail has been broken up a mountain or hill, snowshoers often find a way to speed up the return trip that manages to also be fun and rests the leg muscles: ''glissading'' the trail, or sliding down on their buttocks. This does not damage the trail, and in fact helps pack the snow better for later users.
  
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The snowshoe clubs such as the Montreal Snowshoe club (1840) shortened the teardrop to about {{convert|40|in|cm}} long and {{convert|15|to|18|in|mm}} broad, slightly turned up at the toe and terminating in a kind of tail behind. This is made very light for racing purposes, but much stouter for touring or hunting. The tail keeps the shoe straight while walking.
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[[Image:Snowshoes two styles.JPG|thumb|right|Teardrop showshoes and Bearpaw snowshoes in the [[Gatineau Park]].]]
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In situations where they must break trail downhill and thus cannot glissade, snowshoers sometimes run downhill in exaggerated steps, sliding slightly on the snow as they do, an option sometimes called "step sliding." Also effective, are poles placed in front as you descend in a regular stride. If carrying poles and properly experienced, they can also employ skiing techniques such as telemarking.
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Another variant, the "bearpaw", ends in a curved heel instead of a tail. While many early enthusiasts found this more difficult to learn on, as they were thicker in the middle and rather cumbersome, they did have the advantage of being easier to pack and nimbler in tight spaces. Two forms of traditional bearpaw snowshoes developed; an eastern version used by "spruce gummers" consisting of an oval frame with wooden cross braces, and a western version with a rounded triangular frame and no wooden bracing.
 
  
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Traditional snowshoes are made of a single strip of some tough wood, usually [[white ash]], curved round and fastened together at the ends and supported in the middle by a light cross-bar, the space within the frame thus made being filled with a close webbing of dressed [[caribou]] or [[neat's-hide strips]], leaving a small opening just behind the cross-bar for the toe of the [[Moccasin (footwear)|moccasined]] foot. They are fastened to the moccasin by [[leather]] thongs, sometimes by [[buckle]]s. Such shoes are still made and sold by native peoples.
 
  
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==Modern ==
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[[Image:Couple Snowshoeing.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Canadian couple snowshoeing in 1907]]
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Outside of indigenous populations and some competitions such as [[Arctic Winter Games]], very few of the old-fashioned snowshoes are actually used by enthusiasts anymore, although some value them for the artisanship involved in their construction. They are most commonly seen as decorations, mounted on walls, or on [[Fireplace mantel|mantel]]s, in ski lodges {{Citation needed|date=January 2010}}.
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[[Image:Snowshoe track in woods.jpg|thumb|A broken snowshoe trail]]
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On newly fallen snow it is necessary for a snowshoer to "break" a trail. This is tiring (it may require up to 50% more energy than simply following behind) even on level terrain, and frequently in groups this work is shared among all participants.  
  
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Even though many enthusiasts prefer aluminum snowshoes there is still a large group of snowshoe enthusiasts that prefer wooden snowshoes. Wood snowshoes provide more than twice the flotation that metal snow shoes do while weighing the same. Plus the frames on wood snowshoes can’t freeze like their metal counterparts. Many enthusiasts also prefer wood snowshoes because they are very quiet.  
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A trail breaker can improve the quality of the ensuing route by using a technique, similar to the hiking rest step, called "stamping": pausing momentarily after each step before putting full weight on the foot. This helps smooth the snow underneath and compacts it even better for the next user.
  
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While recreational use of snowshoes began with snowshoe clubs in [[Quebec]], Canada (who held events where races and hikes were combined with fine food and drink), the manufacture of snowshoes for recreational purposes really began in the late 19th century, when serious recreational use became more widespread.  
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A well-broken trail is usually a rut in the snow about {{units|15-20cm|6-8 in}} deep and {{units|60cm|2ft}} wide. While it may appear after heavy use as if it is possible to "bareboot" or walk it without benefit of snowshoes, this practice is frowned upon by serious snowshoers as it leads to "postholing," or roughening of the trail from places where boots have fallen through (initial appearances to the contrary, the snow in a broken trail is not sufficiently packed to support the more concentrated weight of a foot).
  
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In the late 20th century the snowshoe underwent a radical redesign. It started in the 1950s when the [[Vermont]]-based Tubbs company created the [[Green Mountains|Green Mountain]] Bearpaw, which combined the shortness of that style with an even narrower width than had previously been used. This rapidly became one of the most popular snowshoes of its day.
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In soft conditions, following trails broken by backcountry skiers can be difficult on snowshoes. Ski trails are normally much narrower than a typical snowshoe trail, and less well packed because skis offer more flotation than snowshoes. If the snow is deep and soft, snowshoers may find themselves postholing right through the ski track. The recommended technique is to place the snowshoes one directly in front of the other within the ski track. This technique utilizes the most well packed part of the ski trail and minimizes the chances of breaking through.
  
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===The "Western" ===
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In 1972, experimenting with new designs in [[Washington (U.S. state)|Washington]]'s [[Cascade Mountains]], Gene and Bill Prater created the snowshoe known today. They began using [[aluminum]] tubing and replaced the lace with [[neoprene]] and [[nylon]] decking. To make them easier to use in [[mountaineering]], the Praters developed a hinged binding and added [[cleat (shoe)|cleat]]s to the bottom of the shoe.
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<!-- 4.Explain the principles of maintaining body warmth and dryness through the correct use of proper clothing, under various winter conditions, while traveling and resting. Know how to successfully prevent and treat hypothermia in winter conditions. -->
  
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The Sherpa Snowshoe company started manufacturing these "[[Western United States|Western]]" shoes and they proved very popular. [[Eastern United States|Eastern]] snowshoers were a bit more skeptical at first, believing that the style was unnecessary in the east, until the Praters demonstrated their improved effectiveness on [[New Hampshire]]'s [[Mount Washington (New Hampshire)|Mount Washington]]. In time all users switched to the Sherpas.
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===Maintaining Warmth=== <!--T:21-->
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{{:AY Honors/Maintaining body warmth}}
  
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These use an [[aluminum]] or [[stainless steel]] frame and take advantage of technical advances in [[plastic]]s and [[injection moulding|injection molding]] to make a lighter and more durable shoe. They require little maintenance, and usually incorporate aggressive [[crampon]]s.
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===Hypothermia=== <!--T:22-->
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{{:AY Honors/First aid/Hypothermia}}
  
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Some, such as the "Denali" model made by [[Mountain Safety Research]], use no metal frame and can be fitted with optional detachable tail extenders. Newer models have heel-lifters, called "ascenders", that flip up to facilitate hill climbing.
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This practice will help you with two things. The first is that it can prevent you from getting lost. The second is that if you ''do'' get lost, it can help you to find your way again. Though GPS receivers are very good at pinpointing your location and plotting a route to get you to where you are going, you should not rely solely on this technology. Batteries fail, and devices break. While this is true of a compass too, a compass is far less complicated than a sensitive electronic device such as a GPS receiver. In a pinch, a compass can be made with found materials. It is therefore a good idea to learn how to use a compass and map, and to ''practice'' using them so that you will have the necessary skills should your GPS device fail.
  
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The use of solid decking in place of the standard latticework of lacing came as a surprise to many enthusiasts, since it challenged a long-held belief that the lattice was necessary to prevent snow from accumulating on the shoe. In practice, however, it seems that very little snow comes through the openings in either type of shoe.
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As with any outdoor activity that involves trails or going to a place that is infrequently visited by other people, it is important to share your plans with someone who is not going with you. That way if you get into trouble while you are away from help, they will know to call for a rescue. Do not assume you can always call for rescue on your own. You (or your phone) may become incapacitated, rendering this an impossibility. You should therefore leave your plan with someone who will not be joining you on your excursion. Details should include where you will be going, who will be going with you (or will meet you there), and when you plan to return. The person you tell this information to could be someone you know and trust, or it could be a park ranger (many parks require people to check in with them before proceeding into the wilderness areas).
  
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Neoprene/nylon decks also displayed superior water resistance, neither stretching as rawhide will when wet nor requiring annual treatment with [[spar varnish]], features that were immediately appreciated. Eventually they were replaced with even lighter materials such as [[polypropylene]].
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;Where: If you do not share your intended route, your outside contact will not know where to tell the authorities to begin searching for you should the need arise.
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;Who: If you neglect to indicate who will be with you on the trip, a rescue team will not know who they are looking for, or how many individuals they should hope to find. When canines are used in these searches, they are sometimes given an item on which the lost person's scent may be present.
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;When: Let your contact know when you plan to return. If you will be camping overnight, and you do not return on the same day you set out, there is no cause for alarm. However, if you do not plan to stay overnight, and do not return on the same day, there is ample cause for alarm. Some localities will attempt to recover a rescue operation's cost from the people who are rescued (especially if they can show that the rescued persons were ill-prepared for the conditions they were likely to encounter). It is therefore important to not call for rescue unless it is warranted.
  
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These more athletic designs have helped the sport enjoy a renaissance after a period of eclipse when winter recreationists showed more interest in skiing. In the U.S., the number of snowshoers tripled during the 1990s.
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If your plans are complicated, or if the person you are telling does not have a reliable memory (and there are many people who fall into this category), put your plan in writing. A blog post, tweet, or Facebook status update will do fine. Once you announce your plan, ''stick to it'' except to turn back early in the case that the situation changes. If you veer off the planned trail on the spur of the moment, it is exactly as if you never shared your plan with an outside contact at all. If you are able to contact someone via cell phone to update your plan from the field, then it should be safe to proceed (at least as far as sharing the plan goes - there may be other dangers).
  
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In fact, [[ski resort]]s with available land are beginning to offer snowshoe trails to visitors, and some popular hiking areas are almost as busy in the colder months as they are on warm summer weekends.
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Remember that exposure to the elements is the number one cause of death when a person (or party) gets lost in the wilderness. When snowshoeing, you can almost be guaranteed that the elements will be sufficiently extreme as to cause death by exposure. You must counter this risk with caution and preparedness.
  
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== Selection ==
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[[Image:Snowshoes and bindings.jpg|150px|thumb|left|Properly adjusted bindings on two snowshoes of different size. Note use of [[gaiters]].]]
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As many winter recreationists rediscover snowshoeing, many more new models of snowshoe are becoming available. Ski areas and outdoor equipment stores are offering snowshoes for [[Renting|rent]].
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If you or your partner are injured while in the wilderness, it is better to go get help immediately rather than waiting for your outside contact to notice that you have not returned. This could cause an unnecessary delay and put the injured person's life at risk. A partner may also be able to assist an injured person to safety if the injury is not too grave.
  
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Snowshoes today are divided into three types:
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* aerobic/running (small and light; not intended for backcountry use);
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* recreational (a bit larger; meant for use in gentle-to moderate walks of {{convert|3|-|5|mi|km|abbr=off}}); and  
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* mountaineering (the largest, meant for serious hill-climbing, long-distance trips and off-trail use).
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;Water: It is easy to become dehydrated when exerting oneself. Take plenty of water to avoid this risk. When snowshoeing, it is a small matter to tow a supply sled, so you can load it up with supplies. Be warned though, that water can freeze. A Camelbak (or similar equipment) is good for this because the water is held near the body where it can be warmed by the heat you give off. If you do run out of water, do not eat snow or ice - melt it first. Consuming frozen water will lower your body temperature and increase the risk of hypothermia.
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;Snacks: One reason that snowshoeing is such a great activity is because you can pretty much eat constantly while on the trail without gaining weight. You need energy. If you become incapacitated, having a store of energy available will allow you to warm yourself with your metabolism by shivering. Shivering is the body's way of converting food energy to heat, but that energy must come from somewhere. If you run out of energy to metabolize, but are still cold, your body temperature will drop and you will be at risk of hypothermia.
  
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Sizes are often given in inches, even though snowshoes are nowhere near perfectly [[rectangle|rectangular]]. Mountaineering shoes can be at least {{convert|30|in|cm|abbr=off}} long by {{convert|10|in|cm|abbr=off}} wide; a lighter pair of racing shoes can be slightly narrower and {{convert|25|in|cm|abbr=off}} or shorter.
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;First Aid Kit: A minor injury, if left untreated, can become life threatening in the wilderness. Bring a first aid kit to keep a minor injury minor.
 +
;Survival Kit: A survival kit will contain items to prevent death by exposure. It should include reliable fire-starting equipment, a whistle, and an emergency blanket or sleeping bag. Spare, dry clothing is also a good idea.
 +
;Repair Kit: A repair kit will help you to effect a repair to a broken snowshoe or to a torn item of clothing. Duct tape and cable ties can work miracles. Remember that snowshoes will allow you to travel farther faster, so if you get halfway through your journey and your snowshoes fail, you will have to execute the second half without the benefits a snowshoe provides. This translates into slower progress, potentially leaving you in the wilderness after darkness falls, and exposing you to additional risk. Compromised outerwear will not keep water away from your skin, so it too should be repaired in the field if necessary.
  
−
Regardless of configuration, all wooden shoes are referred to as "traditional" and all shoes made of other materials are called "modern."
+
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<!-- 6. Demonstrate how to get up if you are wearing a pair of snowshoes after falling in the snow. -->
 +
The first thing to do when you fall is to check that you are not injured. Then roll onto your stomach, raise yourself up on all fours, pushing with your forearm until you can shift your weight to your knees. Assume a kneeling position. Then while steadying yourself with trekking poles (if you are using them), raise one knee and get the snowshoe beneath yourself. Then as you stand on that leg, get the other shoe into its proper position.
  
−
Notwithstanding these variations in planned use, larger users should plan on buying larger snowshoes. A common formula is that for every pound of body weight, there should be one square inch of snowshoe surface (14.5 cm²/kg) per snowshoe to adequately support the wearer. Users should also consider the weight of any gear they will be packing, especially if they expect to break trail. Those planning to travel into deep powder look for even larger shoes.
+
<!--T:32-->
 +
Once you have regained your feet, brush as much snow off yourself as you can. Otherwise, it will melt on your clothing and you will get soaked. Remember that the secret to staying warm is to stay dry.
  
−
Many manufacturers now include weight-based flotation ratings for their shoes, although there is no standard for setting this as of yet.
+
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 +
<!-- 7. Demonstrate the importance of bindings and be able to correctly fasten your boots in the binding of your snowshoes. -->
 +
When traditional wooden shoes were still popular, it was common to buy the bindings separately (much like downhill skis), and many wooden shoes are still sold this way). They were commonly called "H" bindings, since they consisted of a strap around the heel crossing a strap around the toe and one at the instep, forming a rough version of that letter.
  
−
===Bindings===
+
<!--T:34-->
−
[[Image:Snowshoe reverse.jpg|150px|thumb|right|Underside of a modern fixed-rotation binding snowshoe, showing cleats for [[traction (engineering)|traction]] on steep slopes.]]
+
On modern shoes, there are two styles of binding: fixed-rotation (also known as "limited-rotation") bindings, and full-rotation (also known as "pivot") bindings. With either binding system, the heel is left free, and the difference is in how the ball of the foot is attached to the snowshoe.
−
When traditional wooden shoes were still popular, it was common to buy the bindings separately (much like downhill skis), and many wooden shoes are still sold this way). They were commonly called "H" bindings, since they consisted of a [[strap#binding strap|strap]] around the heel crossing a strap around the toe and one at the instep, forming a rough version of that letter.
 
  
−
On modern shoes, there are two styles of binding: fixed-rotation (also known as "limited-rotation") bindings, and full-rotation (also known as "pivot") bindings.<ref>Read, Tracy C. [http://www.canadiangeographic.ca/travel/travel_magazine/winter_2006/gearup.asp Snow dancin': A first-time buyer's guide to today's sure-footed, cutting-edge snowshoes] . ''Canadian Geographic'', retrieved December 31 2009</ref> With either binding system, the [[heel]] is left free, and the difference is in how the ball of the foot is attached to the snowshoe.
+
<!--T:35-->
 +
In fixed-rotation bindings, the binding is attached to the snowshoe with an elastic strap that brings the tail of the snowshoe up with each step. The snowshoe therefore moves with the foot and the tail does not drag. Fixed-rotation bindings are preferred for racing. Full-rotation bindings allow the user's toes to pivot below the deck of the snowshoe. They allow the crampon cleats that are under the foot to be kicked into a slope for grip in climbing, but are relatively awkward for stepping sideways and backwards as the tail of the snowshoe can drag. Fixed-rotation bindings often cause snow to be kicked up the back of the wearer's legs; this does not tend to happen with full-rotation bindings.
  
−
In fixed-rotation bindings, the binding is attached to the snowshoe with an elastic strap that brings the tail of the snowshoe up with each step. The snowshoe therefore moves with the foot and the tail does not drag. Fixed-rotation bindings are preferred for racing.{{Citation needed|date=January 2010}} Full-rotation bindings allow the user's toes to pivot below the deck of the snowshoe. They allow the [[crampon]] cleats that are under the foot to be kicked into a slope for grip in climbing, but are relatively awkward for stepping sideways and backwards as the tail of the snowshoe can drag. Fixed-rotation bindings often cause snow to be kicked up the back of the wearer's legs; this does not tend to happen with full-rotation bindings.
+
<!--T:36-->
−
 
+
A series of straps, usually three, are used to fasten the foot to the snowshoe. Some styles of binding use a cup for the toe. It is important that a user be able to manipulate these straps easily, as removing or securing the foot often must be done outdoors in cold weather with bare hands, exposing him or her to the possibility of frostbite. When putting on snowshoes, left is distinguished from right by which way the loose ends of the binding straps point: always outward, to avoid stepping on them repeatedly.
−
A series of straps, usually three, are used to fasten the foot to the snowshoe. Some styles of binding use a cup for the toe. It is important that a user be able to manipulate these straps easily, as removing or securing the foot often must be done outdoors in cold weather with bare hands, exposing him or her to the possibility of [[frostbite]]. When putting on snowshoes, left is distinguished from right by which way the loose ends of the binding straps point: always outward, to avoid stepping on them repeatedly.
 
  
 +
<!--T:37-->
 
In 1994, Bill Torres and a younger associate developed the step-in binding, designed to make it easier for snowshoers wearing hard-shelled plastic boots (serious mountaineers) to change from snowshoes to crampons and back again as needed.
 
In 1994, Bill Torres and a younger associate developed the step-in binding, designed to make it easier for snowshoers wearing hard-shelled plastic boots (serious mountaineers) to change from snowshoes to crampons and back again as needed.
  
−
===Accessories===
+
<!--T:38-->
−
[[Image:MSR snowshoes.jpg|thumb|150px|left|MSR solid plastic snowshoes]]
+
Snowshoe manufacturers each have their own designs for bindings, and each design fastens differently. Because of this, it is not possible to give generic instructions for fastening them. You will have to consult the instructions that come with your shoes in order to fasten them correctly.
−
Snowshoers often use [[trekking poles]] as an accessory to help them keep their balance on the snow. Some manufacturers have begun making special snowshoeing models of their poles, with larger baskets more like those found on [[ski poles]] (which can also be used).
 
−
 
 
−
Other than that, no other special accessories are required. Most types of footwear can be worn with snowshoes, although [[hiking boot]]s are the preferred choice among most recreational users (except racers, who prefer [[Athletic shoe|running shoes]]).  [[Ski boot]]s, however, will only work with certain  snowshoes such as the MSR Denali, otherwise requiring backcountry skiers to carry other footwear for the snowshoe portion of their trip.
 
−
 
 
−
If going into deep snow, snowshoers will often take along [[gaiter]]s to keep snow from getting into their boots from above. Some manufacturers make their snowshoes with boot or toe covers to provide the same protection.
 
−
 
 
−
A carrier of some type is also advisable, particularly if the trip will not take place entirely on snowshoes. Some [[backpack]] manufacturers have designed special packs with "[[daisy chain]]s," strips of looped nylon [[webbing]] on which the shoes can be secured. Snowshoe manufacturers, too, have begun including carriers and [[tote bag]]s for their products, if for no other reason than to prevent the often-sharp cleats on the bottom from damaging surfaces they come in contact with.
 
−
 
 
−
Since snowshoeing is commonly done in cold weather, users typically prepare for it by dressing in layers and carrying the appropriate equipment.
 
−
 
 
−
==Use==
 
−
[[Image:Snowshoers in Bryce Canyon.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Snowshoers in [[Bryce Canyon National Park|Bryce Canyon]]]]
 
−
 
 
−
Snowshoes function best when there is enough snow beneath them to pack a layer between them and the ground, usually at a depth of {{convert|8|in|cm|abbr=off}} or more. However, contrary to popular belief, snowshoes perform poorly on very icy and steep terrain. Compared to [[crampons]], snowshoes give relatively little grip on ice. It is common for novice snowshoers to climb up a steep slope to a summit and then have difficulty climbing back down, which tends to be more difficult than ascending. In icy conditions, summer hiking routes may require [[mountaineering]] skills and equipment, not snowshoes.<ref>Stueck, Wendy. [http://www.theglobeandmail.com/news/national/snowshoes-create-false-confidence-rescue-veteran-says-after-man-slides-to-his-death/article1390943/ Snowshoes create false confidence, rescue veteran says after man slides to his death ] ''The [[Globe and Mail]] " Dec. 07, 2009, retrieved Jan 1 2010</ref>  
 
−
 
 
−
Snowshoeing can be done anywhere there is sufficient snow. There is no need to go to a special area of any kind, although such areas may offer some amenities not found in the typical woodlot or [[golf course]].
 
−
 
 
−
===Walking ===
 
−
It is often said by snowshoers that if you can walk, you can snowshoe. This is true in optimal conditions, but snowshoeing properly requires some slight adjustments to walking. The method of walking is to lift the shoes slightly and slide the inner edges over each other, thus avoiding the unnatural and fatiguing "straddle-gait" that would otherwise be necessary. A snowshoer must be willing to roll his or her feet slightly as well. An exaggerated stride works best when starting out, particularly with larger or traditional shoes.
 
−
 
 
−
====Turning====
 
−
Walking skills are easily transferable to straightforward snowshoe travel, but this is not always the case with turning around. While a snowshoer with space to do so can, and usually does, simply walk in a small [[semicircle]], on a steep slope or in close quarters such as a [[boreal forest]] this may be impractical or impossible. It is thus necessary in such circumstances to execute a "kick turn" similar to the one employed on skis: lifting one foot high enough to keep the entire snowshoe in the air while keeping the other planted, putting the foot at a [180 degree angle] and parallel to the other (or as close as possible for the situation and the snowshoer's physical comfort), then planting it on the snow and quickly repeating the action with the other foot. This is much easier to accomplish with poles.
 
−
 
 
−
====Ascending====
 
−
[[Image:Snowshoe heel lift cropped.jpg|thumb|left|Some modern snowshoes have bars that can be flipped up for ascending steep slopes. The wearer's heel can rest on the bar.]]
 
−
While the cleating and traction improvements to modern snowshoes have greatly enhanced snowshoers' climbing abilities, on very steep slopes it is still beneficial to make "kick steps," kicking the toes of the shoes into the snow to create a kind of snow stairs for the next traveler to use.
 
−
 
 
−
Alternatively, snowshoers can use two techniques borrowed from skis: the herringbone (walking uphill with the shoes spread outward at an angle to increase their support) and the sidestep.
 
−
 
 
−
For those snowshoers who use poles, it can be easier to rely on the poles to 'pull' oneself  with regular stride, up the slope.
 
−
 
 
−
====Descending====
 
−
Once a trail has been broken up a mountain or hill, snowshoers often find a way to speed up the return trip that manages to also be fun and rests the leg muscles: ''[[glissade (climbing)|glissading]]'' the trail, or sliding down on their [[buttocks]]. This does not damage the trail, and in fact helps pack the snow better for later users.
 
−
 
 
−
In situations where they must break trail downhill and thus cannot glissade, snowshoers sometimes run downhill in exaggerated steps, sliding slightly on the snow as they do, an option sometimes called "step sliding." Also effective, are poles placed in front as you descend in a regular stride. If carrying poles and properly experienced, they can also employ skiing techniques such as [[Telemark skiing|telemarking]].{{Citation needed|date=January 2010}}
 
−
 
 
−
====Breaking trail====
 
−
[[Image:Snowshoe track in woods.jpg|thumb|A broken snowshoe trail]]
 
−
On newly fallen snow it is necessary for a snowshoer to "break" a trail. This is tiring (it may require up to 50% more energy than simply following behind) even on level terrain, and frequently in groups this work is shared among all participants.
 
−
 
 
−
A trail breaker can improve the quality of the ensuing route by using a technique, similar to the hiking [[rest step]], called "stamping": pausing momentarily after each step before putting full weight on the foot. This helps smooth the snow underneath and compacts it even better for the next user.
 
−
 
 
−
A well-broken trail is usually a rut in the snow about {{convert|6|-|8|in|cm|abbr=off}} deep and {{convert|2|ft|cm|abbr=off}} wide. While it may appear after heavy use as if it is possible to "bareboot" or walk it without benefit of snowshoes, this practice is frowned upon by serious snowshoers as it leads to "postholing," or roughening of the trail from places where boots have fallen through (initial appearances to the contrary, the snow in a broken trail is not sufficiently packed to support the more concentrated weight of a foot).
 
−
 
 
−
In soft conditions, following trails broken by [[ski touring|backcountry skiers]] can be difficult on snowshoes. Ski trails are normally much narrower than a typical snowshoe trail, and less well packed because skis offer more flotation than snowshoes. If the snow is deep and soft, snowshoers may find themselves postholing right through the ski track. The recommended technique is to place the snowshoes one directly in front of the other within the ski track. This technique utilizes the most well packed part of the ski trail and minimizes the chances of breaking through.
 
−
 
 
−
===Benefits===
 
−
[[Image:Snowshoer with perching bird.jpg|left|thumb|150px|Snowshoeing gives many children and adults opportunities to spend time in nature.]]
 
−
Snowshoeing expands the potential for exercise available in the wintertime. {{As of|2006}}, at least 500 [[Education in the United States|American schools]], mostly but not exclusively in the [[Northeastern United States|Northeast]] have started offering snowshoe programs in their [[physical education]] classes to help combat [[obesity]]. It had the added benefit of being gentler on the feet than walking or running the equivalent routes, since snow cushions the foot's impact.
 
−
 
 
−
For the same reason, it is less detrimental to the environment, since the snow likewise buffers the earth against the impact of so many hikers and campers, cutting back on trail [[erosion]] and other effects of heavy use.
 
−
 
 
−
While the cold creates its own safety risks, there is less chance of a hiker getting lost on snowshoes, since they can follow their own trail back.
 
−
 
 
−
Snowshoeing makes even familiar hikes different and new. If the snow is deep enough, obstacles such as large boulders and fallen logs can be more easily bypassed.
 
−
 
 
−
===Adverse effects===
 
−
Immoderate snowshoeing leads to serious lameness of the feet and ankles which Canadian ''[[coureur de bois|voyageurs]]'' called ''mal de raquette''. Modern snowshoes are much lighter and more comfortable so that lameness caused by snowshoeing is now very rare.
 
−
 
 
−
Nonetheless, many snowshoers find that their legs, particularly their [[calf muscle]]s, take some time to get used to snowshoeing again at the start of each winter. Frequently the first serious trip leaves them [[Delayed onset muscle soreness|sore for several days afterwards]].
 
−
 
 
−
=== Winter recreation ===
 
−
[[Image:Snowshoer packing skis.jpg|150px|thumb|right|A snowshoer packing downhill skis.]]
 
−
The resurgence of interest in snowshoeing in the late 20th century was in some part due to [[snowboard]]ers, who took to them as a way to reach backcountry powder bowls and other areas while they were still banned from most ski areas. Their similarities to snowboards, in shape and binding, led many of them to continue use even after snowboarders were allowed to use most ski slopes.
 
−
 
 
−
[[Alpine skiing|Downhill skiers]], too, found snowshoes useful in reaching the same areas.
 
−
 
 
−
Another popular expedition, particularly among hikers, is the "ski-shoe" trip combining a [[cross-country skiing|cross-country ski]] portion on a level, wide [[trail]] with a snowshoe up a less skiable section, usually to a mountain summit.
 
−
 
 
−
===Competition===
 
−
Runners have found that using light snowshoes allows them to continue exercising and racing during winter. Like their warm-weather counterparts, events cover all distances, from [[Sprint (race)|sprint]]s of 100 m to the 100&nbsp;km "Iditashoe." There are even [[Hurdling|hurdle]] events.
 
−
 
 
−
Snowshoe segments have become common in many [[multisport]] events and [[adventure racing|adventure races]], including a required snowshoe segment in the winter [[quadrathlon]]. Some competitors in those events like [[Sally Edwards]] and [[Tom Sobal]] have emerged as stars.
 
−
 
 
−
While snowshoe racing has probably been around as long as there have been snowshoes, as an organized sport it is relatively new. The [[United States Snowshoe Association]] was founded in 1977 to serve as a governing body for competitive snowshoeing. It is headquartered in [[Corinth (village), New York|Corinth]], [[New York]], which considers itself the "Snowshoe Capital of the World" as a result. Similar organizations, such as the [[European Snowshoe Committee]] and [[Japan]]'s [[Chikyu Network]], exist in other countries and there is an international competitive level as well.
 
−
 
 
−
Snowshoe races are part of the [[Arctic Winter Games]] and the winter [[Special Olympics]]. However, they are not yet an [[Winter Olympic Games|Olympic]] event.
 
−
 
 
−
==Maintenance and repair==
 
−
[[Image:Snowshoes.JPG|thumb|125px|Rawhide webbing]]
 
−
The rawhide webbing of traditional snowshoes, as noted above, needs regular [[waterproofing]]. Spar varnish is the preferred waterproofing for traditional snowshoes. A light sanding is preferred before 3 coats of spar varnish is applied. Modern snowshoes need no regular maintenance save a sharpening of cleats if desired.
 
  
−
Both kinds of snowshoe, however, can and do break. The most common damage suffered is to the frame, which can be splinted with a stick or piece of wood if necessary. Decking rarely gets broken, but if it is punctured and the hole looks as if it might continue to grow, the best solution is the [[repair|patching]] kits made for [[tent]]s.
+
<!--T:39-->
 +
When selecting snowshoes, the bindings are one of the most important features to consider. They should be easy to put on, and easy to get off. If they are not, you will be much less likely to use them. Also remember that the bindings will likely require adjustments while you are out on the trail. Under these conditions, the straps are likely to be stiff with ice, and your fingers are likely to be cold.
  
−
[[Cable tie]]s can serve many purposes in repairing snowshoes. They can splint frames in a pinch, replace a broken rivet, secure a tie or lace, and repair winter clothing as well.
+
<!--T:40-->
 +
Some experienced snowshoers <ref>''Snowshoeing, A Trailside Guide'' by Larry Olmsted</ref> advise against bindings that are based on straps that make two passes through a buckle and rely on friction to stay put.
  
−
==See also==
+
<!--T:82-->
−
{{Commons category|Snowshoes}}
+
<noinclude></translate></noinclude>
−
*[[Winter sport]]s
+
{{CloseReq}} <!-- 7 -->
−
*''[[Les raquetteurs]]''
+
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 +
<noinclude><translate><!--T:83-->
 +
</noinclude>
 +
<!-- 8. Take a series of three hikes – a short hike, a one-mile hike, and a two-mile hike. Make a detailed report describing the approximate depth and condition of the snow, plants and animals, and the approximate speed at which you travelled. -->
 +
An excellent place to begin snowshoeing is on a golf course. The course will obviously not be used by golfers when it is covered with snow. Golf courses provide open spaces and gentle slopes. Other options are parks, hiking trails, and cross-country skiing trails.
  
−
==References==
+
<!--T:42-->
−
{{Reflist}}
+
Be sure to record your trip as soon as possible upon your return. It is easy to forget details. Measure the snow depth with a stick. Is the snow light and fluffy, or is it wet and packed?
  
−
*{{1911}}
+
<!--T:43-->
−
*''[[Associated Press]]'', February 13, 2006; [http://www.cnn.com/2006/EDUCATION/02/13/snowshoe.physed.ap/index.html Snowshoes are alternatives in winter gym class].
+
To maximize your chances of seeing wild animals, minimize your noise. Look for animal tracks and listen for birds. Bring a camera and see if you can capture the beauty of the snow-laden landscape.
−
*Felkley, David and Prater, Gene, ''Snowshoeing: From Novice to Master'', The Mountaineers Books, Klickitat, Wash., 2002. ISBN 0-89886-891-2.
 
−
*Heilman, Carl; [http://www.carlheilman.com/snowshoes-walk.html If You Can Walk... You Can Snowshoe] at carlheilman.com date unknown, retrieved January 10, 2006.
 
−
*Kreps, E; ''Camp and Trail Methods'', A.R. Harding Co, Columbus Ohio
 
−
*Olmsted, Larry; ''Snowshoeing: A Trailside Guide'', W.W. Norton, New York, N.Y. 1997. ISBN 0-393-31720-X.
 
−
*Prosek, James; February 6, 2004; [http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?sec=travel&res=990DE5DD103BF935A35751C0A9629C8B63 JOURNEYS: Making Tracks in a World Gone Silent], ''[[The New York Times]]''.
 
−
*Tucker, Jim; [http://www.snowshoeracing.com/history.htm History of Snowshoeing], at snowshoeracing.com, retrieved January 18, 2006.
 
−
*Woodward, Angela; [http://www.madehow.com/Volume-6/Snowshoe.html Snowshoe], at madehow.com, retrieved January 22, 2006.
 
  
−
==External links==
+
<!--T:84-->
−
*[http://www.gvsnowshoes.com/eng/hist_raq.html History of the Snowshoe in Canada]
+
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−
*[http://www.snowshoemag.com/first.cfm First Timer's Guide to Snowshoeing]
+
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<!-- 9. Explain the meaning of the term “whiter than snow” found is Psalm 51:7. What other natural metaphors could you use to demonstrate the meaning of this verse? -->
 +
{{Bible verse
 +
|book = Psalm
 +
|chapter=51
 +
|verse=7
 +
|version=NIV
 +
|text=
 +
Cleanse me with hyssop, and I will be clean;<br>
 +
wash me, and I will be whiter than snow.
 +
}}
 +
The color white represents purity. In this verse, the psalmist compares sinlessness with the whiteness of snow. It is easy to see flecks of dirt in snow, and it is likewise easy to tell that snow is clean and pure. When we are cleansed of sin by Jesus, we are completely purified.
  
−
[[Category:Footwear]]
+
<!--T:45-->
−
[[Category:Hiking equipment]]
+
For other metaphors, try to think of things in nature that are pure or white. Here are some ideas:
−
[[Category:Snow]]
+
*Rain water
 +
*Wool
 +
*Flour
 +
*Pure grape juice (wine has leavening in it, and leaven is a symbol of sin).
  
−
[[ca:Raquetes de neu]]
+
<!--T:86-->
−
[[cs:Sněžnice]]
+
<noinclude></translate></noinclude>
−
[[de:Schneeschuh]]
+
{{CloseReq}} <!-- 9 -->
−
[[es:Raquetas de nieve]]
+
<noinclude><translate></noinclude>
−
[[eo:Neĝŝuo]]
+
==References== <!--T:46-->
−
[[fr:Raquette à neige]]
+
<references/>
−
[[it:Racchette da neve]]
+
*http://www.backpacking.net/winter.html
−
[[he:נעלי שלג]]
+
<noinclude></translate></noinclude>
−
[[hu:Hótalp]]
+
{{CloseHonorPage}}
−
[[nl:Sneeuwschoen]]
 
−
[[ja:かんじき]]
 
−
[[no:Truger]]
 
−
[[pl:Rakiety śnieżne]]
 
−
[[pt:Raquete de neve]]
 
−
[[ru:Снегоступы]]
 
−
[[fi:Lumikenkä]]
 
−
[[sv:Snöskor]]
 
−
[[ta:பனித்தூவி காலணி]]
 
−
[[vec:Ciaspe]]
 
−
[[zh:雪鞋]]
 

Latest revision as of 23:01, 18 July 2022

Other languages:
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Snowshoeing

Skill Level

1

Year

2010

Version

28.11.2024

Approval authority

General Conference

Snowshoeing AY Honor.png
Snowshoeing
Recreation
Skill Level
123
Approval authority
General Conference
Year of Introduction
2010
See also
Recreation Master Award
Snowshoeing - Advanced


1

Describe the shape and size of three types of snowshoes and when/how they might be used (Aerobic/running, recreation, mountaineering).


Aerobic/running

An aerobic/running snowshoe is intended for use by runners who would otherwise not be able to train in their sport when there is snow on the ground.

They are smaller and lighter than other types of snowshoes and are intended for use on packed snow. Further, the bindings are usually closer to the inside edge of the shoe so that the runner can maintain a more natural stride than with other types of snowshoes. These snowshoes are also likely to have an asymmetric shape.

Recreation

Recreation snowshoes are larger than aerobic/running snowshoes, and are meant for use in gentle-to moderate walks of 5 to 8 km3–5 miles. In most cases, recreation snowshoes can be used as all-purpose shoes, and will last the user for many years of even rough use. These snowshoes are most often symmetric and somewhat oval-shaped.

Mountaineering

Mountaineering are the largest snowshoes, and are meant for serious hill-climbing, long-distance trips and off-trail use. Like recreational shoes, mountaineering shoes are most often symmetrical and oval shaped, though they will be more of an elongated oval than the recreational counterparts.

The size of the shoe needed is dictated by two factors: the weight of the person using them, and the condition of the snow on which they will be used. Snowshoes will sink more deeply into light fluffy snow (such as the snow for which Utah is famous) requiring a larger shoe. Wet or packed snow can be traversed with smaller shoes.


2

Describe the following snowshoe accessories and their usefulness while snowshoeing:


2a

Trekking poles


Trekking poles help you balance when snowshoeing, can be used to assist in getting up after a fall, and can spread the workload from your legs to your arms giving you a better workout.


2b

Hiking boots


Snowshoes do not come with a foot covering. The snowshoer must provide that separately. Hiking boots are a good choice because they are warm, relatively waterproof, and lightweight. Snow boots are not necessary because the snowshoe will keep the boot above the snow (for the most part). The added weight of a snow boot can be exhausting.


2c

Gaiters


Gaiters are garments worn over the shoe and lower pant leg, and used primarily as personal protective equipment. Gaiters strap over the boot and around the person's leg to provide protection from branches and thorns and to prevent snow from entering the top of the boot.



3

Demonstrate proper technique of the following while using snowshoes:


3a

Turning


Walking skills are easily transferable to straightforward snowshoe travel, but this is not always the case with turning around. While a snowshoer with space to do so can, and usually does, simply walk in a small semicircle, on a steep slope or in close quarters such as a boreal forest this may be impractical or impossible. It is thus necessary in such circumstances to execute a "kick turn" similar to the one employed on skis: lifting one foot high enough to keep the entire snowshoe in the air while keeping the other planted, putting the foot at a 180 degree angle and parallel to the other (or as close as possible for the situation and the snowshoer's physical comfort), then planting it on the snow and quickly repeating the action with the other foot. This is much easier to accomplish with poles.


3b

Ascending


Some modern snowshoes have bars that can be flipped up for ascending steep slopes. The wearer's heel can rest on the bar.

While the cleating and traction improvements to modern snowshoes have greatly enhanced snowshoers' climbing abilities, on very steep slopes it is still beneficial to make "kick steps," kicking the toes of the shoes into the snow to create a kind of snow stairs for the next traveler to use.

Alternatively, snowshoers can use two techniques borrowed from skis: the herringbone (walking uphill with the shoes spread outward at an angle to increase their support) and the sidestep.

For those snowshoers who use poles, it can be easier to rely on the poles to 'pull' oneself with regular stride, up the slope.


3c

Descending


Once a trail has been broken up a mountain or hill, snowshoers often find a way to speed up the return trip that manages to also be fun and rests the leg muscles: glissading the trail, or sliding down on their buttocks. This does not damage the trail, and in fact helps pack the snow better for later users.

In situations where they must break trail downhill and thus cannot glissade, snowshoers sometimes run downhill in exaggerated steps, sliding slightly on the snow as they do, an option sometimes called "step sliding." Also effective, are poles placed in front as you descend in a regular stride. If carrying poles and properly experienced, they can also employ skiing techniques such as telemarking.



3d

Breaking Trail


A broken snowshoe trail

On newly fallen snow it is necessary for a snowshoer to "break" a trail. This is tiring (it may require up to 50% more energy than simply following behind) even on level terrain, and frequently in groups this work is shared among all participants.

A trail breaker can improve the quality of the ensuing route by using a technique, similar to the hiking rest step, called "stamping": pausing momentarily after each step before putting full weight on the foot. This helps smooth the snow underneath and compacts it even better for the next user.

A well-broken trail is usually a rut in the snow about 15-20cm6-8 in deep and 60cm2ft wide. While it may appear after heavy use as if it is possible to "bareboot" or walk it without benefit of snowshoes, this practice is frowned upon by serious snowshoers as it leads to "postholing," or roughening of the trail from places where boots have fallen through (initial appearances to the contrary, the snow in a broken trail is not sufficiently packed to support the more concentrated weight of a foot).

In soft conditions, following trails broken by backcountry skiers can be difficult on snowshoes. Ski trails are normally much narrower than a typical snowshoe trail, and less well packed because skis offer more flotation than snowshoes. If the snow is deep and soft, snowshoers may find themselves postholing right through the ski track. The recommended technique is to place the snowshoes one directly in front of the other within the ski track. This technique utilizes the most well packed part of the ski trail and minimizes the chances of breaking through.



4

Explain the principles of maintaining body warmth and dryness through the correct use of proper clothing, under various winter conditions, while traveling and resting. Know how to successfully prevent and treat hypothermia in winter conditions.


Maintaining Warmth

The key to staying warm in the winter is to stay dry. This is done by dressing in layers which are easily vented. While snow shoeing, hiking, or cross country skiing, an individual generates an enormous amount of body heat. Unless the person is careful, the body will overheat, and the person will begin to perspire. When the person stops to rest, the perspiration will begin to chill the body. It is therefore imperative that the active person dress in layers. When the body begins to heat up, the outer jacket should be vented, which is to say, unzipped. If heat continues to build, the outer jacket should be removed. If this does not cool the body enough to end perspiration, another layer should be vented, and perhaps shed. Eventually, the clothing will match the person's level of activity, where enough body heat is generated to keep the person warm, but not sweaty. If it is snowing, sleeting, or raining, be sure the outermost layer is waterproof.


If a person finds that he (or she) has not controlled his (or her) perspiration sufficiently, it is important to change out of the sweat-soaked garments as soon as possible. For once the chills set in, they are difficult to overcome. Do not wear cotton garments for winter camping. Cotton will keep you warm only if it is kept perfectly dry, and keeping it perfectly dry is nearly impossible. Winter campers are quick to admonish that cotton kills. Instead wear woolen or synthetic garments.

When the day's exertion ends, it is time to start adding layers again. When it is finally time to go to bed, the winter camper should climb into a warm sleeping bag and zip up. Sleeping bags are generally given a temperature rating. It would be foolish to set out on a winter camping expedition with a $10.00 sleeping bag that is only good down to 40°F4.4°C. Make sure the temperature rating matches the expected conditions, and reserve a little margin for bad forecasting. Also, don't forget that weather forecasts often do not cover higher elevations, so if you're hiking in mountainous areas, be aware of the conditions at the altitude you're going to be spending your time. Again, if perspiration begins, the bag should be partially unzipped to allow the air to cool the body before sweat does.


Hypothermia

Hypothermia is caused by continued exposure to low or rapidly falling temperatures, cold moisture, snow, or ice. Those exposed to low temperatures for extended periods may suffer ill effects, even if they are well protected by clothing, because cold affects the body systems slowly, almost without notice. As the body cools, there are several stages of progressive discomfort and disability. he first symptom is shivering, which is an attempt to generate heat by repeated contractions of surface muscles. This is followed by a feeling of listlessness, indifference, and drowsiness. Unconsciousness can follow quickly. Shock becomes evident as the victim’s eyes assume a glassy stare, respiration becomes slow and shallow, and the pulse is weak or absent. As the body temperature drops even lower, peripheral circulation decreases and the extremities become susceptible to freezing. Finally, death results as the core temperature of the body approaches 80°F (27°C). The steps for treatment of hypothermia are as follows:

  1. Carefully observe respiratory effort and heart beat; CPR may be required while the warming process is underway.
  2. Rewarm the victim as soon as possible. It may be necessary to treat other injuries before the victim can be moved to a warmer place. Severe bleeding must be controlled and fractures splinted over clothing before the victim is moved.
  3. Replace wet or frozen clothing and remove anything that constricts the victim’s arms, legs, or fingers, interfering with circulation.
  4. If the victim is inside a warm place and is conscious, the most effective method of warming is immersion in a tub of warm (100° to 105°F or 38° to 41°C) water. The water should be warm to the elbow - never hot. Observe closely for signs of respiratory failure and cardiac arrest (rewarming shock). Rewarming shock can be minimized by warming the body trunk before the limbs to prevent vasodilation in the extremities with subsequent shock due to blood volume shifts.
  5. If a tub is not available, apply external heat to both sides of the victim. Natural body heat (skin to skin) from two rescuers is the best method. This is called “buddy warming.” If this is not practical, use hot water bottles or an electric rewarming blanket. Do not place the blanket or bottles next to bare skin, however, and be careful to monitor the temperature of the artificial heat source, since the victim is very susceptible to burn injury. Because the victim is unable to generate adequate body heat, placement under a blanket or in a sleeping bag is not sufficient treatment.
  6. If the victim is conscious, give warm liquids to drink. Never give alcoholic beverages or allow the victim to smoke.
  7. Dry the victim thoroughly if water is used for rewarming.
  8. As soon as possible, transfer the victim to a definitive care facility. Be alert for the signs of respiratory and cardiac arrest during transfer, and keep the victim warm.



5

Explain the safety value of the following practices:


5a

Taking and understanding how to use a good map and compass or hiking GPS.


This practice will help you with two things. The first is that it can prevent you from getting lost. The second is that if you do get lost, it can help you to find your way again. Though GPS receivers are very good at pinpointing your location and plotting a route to get you to where you are going, you should not rely solely on this technology. Batteries fail, and devices break. While this is true of a compass too, a compass is far less complicated than a sensitive electronic device such as a GPS receiver. In a pinch, a compass can be made with found materials. It is therefore a good idea to learn how to use a compass and map, and to practice using them so that you will have the necessary skills should your GPS device fail.


5b

Leaving a plan with someone when you are snowshoeing.


As with any outdoor activity that involves trails or going to a place that is infrequently visited by other people, it is important to share your plans with someone who is not going with you. That way if you get into trouble while you are away from help, they will know to call for a rescue. Do not assume you can always call for rescue on your own. You (or your phone) may become incapacitated, rendering this an impossibility. You should therefore leave your plan with someone who will not be joining you on your excursion. Details should include where you will be going, who will be going with you (or will meet you there), and when you plan to return. The person you tell this information to could be someone you know and trust, or it could be a park ranger (many parks require people to check in with them before proceeding into the wilderness areas).

Where
If you do not share your intended route, your outside contact will not know where to tell the authorities to begin searching for you should the need arise.
Who
If you neglect to indicate who will be with you on the trip, a rescue team will not know who they are looking for, or how many individuals they should hope to find. When canines are used in these searches, they are sometimes given an item on which the lost person's scent may be present.
When
Let your contact know when you plan to return. If you will be camping overnight, and you do not return on the same day you set out, there is no cause for alarm. However, if you do not plan to stay overnight, and do not return on the same day, there is ample cause for alarm. Some localities will attempt to recover a rescue operation's cost from the people who are rescued (especially if they can show that the rescued persons were ill-prepared for the conditions they were likely to encounter). It is therefore important to not call for rescue unless it is warranted.

If your plans are complicated, or if the person you are telling does not have a reliable memory (and there are many people who fall into this category), put your plan in writing. A blog post, tweet, or Facebook status update will do fine. Once you announce your plan, stick to it except to turn back early in the case that the situation changes. If you veer off the planned trail on the spur of the moment, it is exactly as if you never shared your plan with an outside contact at all. If you are able to contact someone via cell phone to update your plan from the field, then it should be safe to proceed (at least as far as sharing the plan goes - there may be other dangers).

Remember that exposure to the elements is the number one cause of death when a person (or party) gets lost in the wilderness. When snowshoeing, you can almost be guaranteed that the elements will be sufficiently extreme as to cause death by exposure. You must counter this risk with caution and preparedness.


5c

Snowshoeing with a partner.


If you or your partner are injured while in the wilderness, it is better to go get help immediately rather than waiting for your outside contact to notice that you have not returned. This could cause an unnecessary delay and put the injured person's life at risk. A partner may also be able to assist an injured person to safety if the injury is not too grave.


5d

Carrying sufficient water and snacks.


Water
It is easy to become dehydrated when exerting oneself. Take plenty of water to avoid this risk. When snowshoeing, it is a small matter to tow a supply sled, so you can load it up with supplies. Be warned though, that water can freeze. A Camelbak (or similar equipment) is good for this because the water is held near the body where it can be warmed by the heat you give off. If you do run out of water, do not eat snow or ice - melt it first. Consuming frozen water will lower your body temperature and increase the risk of hypothermia.
Snacks
One reason that snowshoeing is such a great activity is because you can pretty much eat constantly while on the trail without gaining weight. You need energy. If you become incapacitated, having a store of energy available will allow you to warm yourself with your metabolism by shivering. Shivering is the body's way of converting food energy to heat, but that energy must come from somewhere. If you run out of energy to metabolize, but are still cold, your body temperature will drop and you will be at risk of hypothermia.


5e

Carrying a first aid, survival, and repair kits.


First Aid Kit
A minor injury, if left untreated, can become life threatening in the wilderness. Bring a first aid kit to keep a minor injury minor.
Survival Kit
A survival kit will contain items to prevent death by exposure. It should include reliable fire-starting equipment, a whistle, and an emergency blanket or sleeping bag. Spare, dry clothing is also a good idea.
Repair Kit
A repair kit will help you to effect a repair to a broken snowshoe or to a torn item of clothing. Duct tape and cable ties can work miracles. Remember that snowshoes will allow you to travel farther faster, so if you get halfway through your journey and your snowshoes fail, you will have to execute the second half without the benefits a snowshoe provides. This translates into slower progress, potentially leaving you in the wilderness after darkness falls, and exposing you to additional risk. Compromised outerwear will not keep water away from your skin, so it too should be repaired in the field if necessary.



6

Demonstrate how to get up if you are wearing a pair of snowshoes after falling in the snow.


The first thing to do when you fall is to check that you are not injured. Then roll onto your stomach, raise yourself up on all fours, pushing with your forearm until you can shift your weight to your knees. Assume a kneeling position. Then while steadying yourself with trekking poles (if you are using them), raise one knee and get the snowshoe beneath yourself. Then as you stand on that leg, get the other shoe into its proper position.

Once you have regained your feet, brush as much snow off yourself as you can. Otherwise, it will melt on your clothing and you will get soaked. Remember that the secret to staying warm is to stay dry.


7

Demonstrate the importance of bindings and be able to correctly fasten your boots in the binding of your snowshoes.


When traditional wooden shoes were still popular, it was common to buy the bindings separately (much like downhill skis), and many wooden shoes are still sold this way). They were commonly called "H" bindings, since they consisted of a strap around the heel crossing a strap around the toe and one at the instep, forming a rough version of that letter.

On modern shoes, there are two styles of binding: fixed-rotation (also known as "limited-rotation") bindings, and full-rotation (also known as "pivot") bindings. With either binding system, the heel is left free, and the difference is in how the ball of the foot is attached to the snowshoe.

In fixed-rotation bindings, the binding is attached to the snowshoe with an elastic strap that brings the tail of the snowshoe up with each step. The snowshoe therefore moves with the foot and the tail does not drag. Fixed-rotation bindings are preferred for racing. Full-rotation bindings allow the user's toes to pivot below the deck of the snowshoe. They allow the crampon cleats that are under the foot to be kicked into a slope for grip in climbing, but are relatively awkward for stepping sideways and backwards as the tail of the snowshoe can drag. Fixed-rotation bindings often cause snow to be kicked up the back of the wearer's legs; this does not tend to happen with full-rotation bindings.

A series of straps, usually three, are used to fasten the foot to the snowshoe. Some styles of binding use a cup for the toe. It is important that a user be able to manipulate these straps easily, as removing or securing the foot often must be done outdoors in cold weather with bare hands, exposing him or her to the possibility of frostbite. When putting on snowshoes, left is distinguished from right by which way the loose ends of the binding straps point: always outward, to avoid stepping on them repeatedly.

In 1994, Bill Torres and a younger associate developed the step-in binding, designed to make it easier for snowshoers wearing hard-shelled plastic boots (serious mountaineers) to change from snowshoes to crampons and back again as needed.

Snowshoe manufacturers each have their own designs for bindings, and each design fastens differently. Because of this, it is not possible to give generic instructions for fastening them. You will have to consult the instructions that come with your shoes in order to fasten them correctly.

When selecting snowshoes, the bindings are one of the most important features to consider. They should be easy to put on, and easy to get off. If they are not, you will be much less likely to use them. Also remember that the bindings will likely require adjustments while you are out on the trail. Under these conditions, the straps are likely to be stiff with ice, and your fingers are likely to be cold.

Some experienced snowshoers & advise against bindings that are based on straps that make two passes through a buckle and rely on friction to stay put.


8

Take a series of three hikes – a short hike, a one-mile hike, and a two-mile hike. Make a detailed report describing the approximate depth and condition of the snow, plants and animals, and the approximate speed at which you travelled.


An excellent place to begin snowshoeing is on a golf course. The course will obviously not be used by golfers when it is covered with snow. Golf courses provide open spaces and gentle slopes. Other options are parks, hiking trails, and cross-country skiing trails.

Be sure to record your trip as soon as possible upon your return. It is easy to forget details. Measure the snow depth with a stick. Is the snow light and fluffy, or is it wet and packed?

To maximize your chances of seeing wild animals, minimize your noise. Look for animal tracks and listen for birds. Bring a camera and see if you can capture the beauty of the snow-laden landscape.


9

Explain the meaning of the term “whiter than snow” found is Psalm 51:7. What other natural metaphors could you use to demonstrate the meaning of this verse?



Cleanse me with hyssop, and I will be clean;
wash me, and I will be whiter than snow.
— Psalm 51:7 (NIV)

The color white represents purity. In this verse, the psalmist compares sinlessness with the whiteness of snow. It is easy to see flecks of dirt in snow, and it is likewise easy to tell that snow is clean and pure. When we are cleansed of sin by Jesus, we are completely purified.

For other metaphors, try to think of things in nature that are pure or white. Here are some ideas:

  • Rain water
  • Wool
  • Flour
  • Pure grape juice (wine has leavening in it, and leaven is a symbol of sin).



References

  1. ↑ Snowshoeing, A Trailside Guide by Larry Olmsted
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